The uglier side of Istanbul
Trip Start
Feb 22, 2007
1
4
38
Trip End
Jul 19, 2008
In the late evening I decided to head to Beyoglu, a district boasting Istanbul's thriving bar and restaurant scene. Having managed to walk all over Old Istanbul during my day of sightseeing, I had to negotiate the (superbly efficient) tram and underground system in order to cross the Bosphorus in to Beyoglu. Having ascended from the underground, I found myself confronted with a hectic traffic island that offered me several directions in which to head. Instead of asking for directions I decided to head in the direction with the most neon lighting, assuming that they represented a plethora of bars and restaurants. Not long in to my walk, I was accosted by a man asking for the time. Having given him the time, I continued to talk to him as he appeared to be walking in my direction and he had also informed me that I was indeed heading for the main bar area.
After a few minutes we came to a street on which he said he had his own bar. I told him that I would continue on but would maybe pop in to his bar another time. However, not taking no for an answer, he insisted I come in briefly so he could give me his business card. Against my better judgement, I followed him to the door of his establishment. Having taken one look inside - dim lighting, empty, a table of girls at the back - I realised I'd gotten myself in to a pickle, but, as I turned to leave, I was ushered rather forcefully to a table; the sound of the door being closed behind me a horrible soundtrack to this unpleasant turn of events.
No sooner had I sat down, along came one of the women to sit at our table. My stomach was starting to churn as I silently contemplated how this scam might play out. While the man instructed the woman to write down her number, along came the waiter with two cokes and a bottle of champagne. Oh fuck... that old chestnut - those of you familiar with my accidental Hamburg brothel tale (usually introduced as 'my most expensive round' tale) will wonder at this point just how shallow my learning curve is! I immediately said I didn't want a drink and I didn't want to buy the woman a drink, but, as I got up and headed for the door, a group of heavy-set men appeared as if from nowhere and forced me back to the table. As I sat back down, the manager came over with the bill - 390 YTL (approx $300).
Panic was now setting in, and I wondered to myself just how the hell I might get out of this situation. I tried to reason with the manager - "I didn't ask for the drinks", "I don't have that much money" etc. but this guy was not impressed. He made me empty my pockets which contained around 200 YTL. After initially refusing to do so, I then hastily obliged after the manager leaned malevolently across the table and whispered "you don't want to see what those guys do", pointing, as he spoke, to his 'heavies'.
Obviously feeling generous, the manager decided after some further persuasion by me that he would accept a mere 140 YTL so as to leave me enough for my time in Istanbul. At this point I handed over the money and was finally allowed to leave the bar. As I made my hasty retreat back to the central square from where I'd arrived, I could see in my peripheral vision that the bar had sent someone out to follow me, presumably to make sure I didn't head straight for the police or something.
However, having managed to lose the stalker at a set of traffic lights, I did indeed head straight for the nearest police van where upon I told them about the scam to which I'd fallen victim. They drove me back to the bar where, after a few minutes discussion between the police and one of the barmen, my money was returned to me. The police then drove me back to the bustle of the main square.
It was gone midnight now which meant I had missed the last tram back to Sultanahmet and the sanctuary of my dorm room. So, knowing that I'd have to get a taxi back now anyway, I decided to head (in the correct direction this time) to the main bar and restaurant strip determined to salvage some fun from my night out. However, I set myself a new rule of not speaking to any more strangers in the street.
Yet, as I walked down the bustling concourse, two guys came up to me to whom I immediately let down my guard again. Perhaps it is a disposition that accompanies the lone traveller, but I definitely feel more willing or perhaps more obliged to give time to strangers as they inherently represent the only avenues for social interaction.
As it turns out, they were Turkish Cypriots on a business trip to Istanbul. They were very friendly and one of them even spoke Arabic, so I was able to get in some early language practice with him before my imminent arrival in Syria. Indeed, I joined them for a drink in one of the many bars on the main strip and had a pretty good time.
However, despite the kindness and hospitality of these two strangers, my psyche had already been indelibly tarred with the brush of suspicion, and when we began walking toward a club that seemed to be back in the direction of my night's earlier incident, I politely declined and we went our separate ways.
All in all, it was a night to forget with a lesson to remember. It was a lesson learnt though, as I was definitely able to spot the scammers from the friendly strangers as I walked the streets looking for a taxi home.
After a few minutes we came to a street on which he said he had his own bar. I told him that I would continue on but would maybe pop in to his bar another time. However, not taking no for an answer, he insisted I come in briefly so he could give me his business card. Against my better judgement, I followed him to the door of his establishment. Having taken one look inside - dim lighting, empty, a table of girls at the back - I realised I'd gotten myself in to a pickle, but, as I turned to leave, I was ushered rather forcefully to a table; the sound of the door being closed behind me a horrible soundtrack to this unpleasant turn of events.
No sooner had I sat down, along came one of the women to sit at our table. My stomach was starting to churn as I silently contemplated how this scam might play out. While the man instructed the woman to write down her number, along came the waiter with two cokes and a bottle of champagne. Oh fuck... that old chestnut - those of you familiar with my accidental Hamburg brothel tale (usually introduced as 'my most expensive round' tale) will wonder at this point just how shallow my learning curve is! I immediately said I didn't want a drink and I didn't want to buy the woman a drink, but, as I got up and headed for the door, a group of heavy-set men appeared as if from nowhere and forced me back to the table. As I sat back down, the manager came over with the bill - 390 YTL (approx $300).
Panic was now setting in, and I wondered to myself just how the hell I might get out of this situation. I tried to reason with the manager - "I didn't ask for the drinks", "I don't have that much money" etc. but this guy was not impressed. He made me empty my pockets which contained around 200 YTL. After initially refusing to do so, I then hastily obliged after the manager leaned malevolently across the table and whispered "you don't want to see what those guys do", pointing, as he spoke, to his 'heavies'.
Obviously feeling generous, the manager decided after some further persuasion by me that he would accept a mere 140 YTL so as to leave me enough for my time in Istanbul. At this point I handed over the money and was finally allowed to leave the bar. As I made my hasty retreat back to the central square from where I'd arrived, I could see in my peripheral vision that the bar had sent someone out to follow me, presumably to make sure I didn't head straight for the police or something.
However, having managed to lose the stalker at a set of traffic lights, I did indeed head straight for the nearest police van where upon I told them about the scam to which I'd fallen victim. They drove me back to the bar where, after a few minutes discussion between the police and one of the barmen, my money was returned to me. The police then drove me back to the bustle of the main square.
It was gone midnight now which meant I had missed the last tram back to Sultanahmet and the sanctuary of my dorm room. So, knowing that I'd have to get a taxi back now anyway, I decided to head (in the correct direction this time) to the main bar and restaurant strip determined to salvage some fun from my night out. However, I set myself a new rule of not speaking to any more strangers in the street.
Yet, as I walked down the bustling concourse, two guys came up to me to whom I immediately let down my guard again. Perhaps it is a disposition that accompanies the lone traveller, but I definitely feel more willing or perhaps more obliged to give time to strangers as they inherently represent the only avenues for social interaction.
As it turns out, they were Turkish Cypriots on a business trip to Istanbul. They were very friendly and one of them even spoke Arabic, so I was able to get in some early language practice with him before my imminent arrival in Syria. Indeed, I joined them for a drink in one of the many bars on the main strip and had a pretty good time.
However, despite the kindness and hospitality of these two strangers, my psyche had already been indelibly tarred with the brush of suspicion, and when we began walking toward a club that seemed to be back in the direction of my night's earlier incident, I politely declined and we went our separate ways.
All in all, it was a night to forget with a lesson to remember. It was a lesson learnt though, as I was definitely able to spot the scammers from the friendly strangers as I walked the streets looking for a taxi home.


Comments
Lol
Had me worried for a minute there young Parker. Glad you got out of that one ok. Could have gone very Pete Tong!
Accidental Tourists strikes again
I did fall into a similar scam in the same street (Istiklal Caddesi) in Taksim/Beyoglu area with a guy pretending to be a tourist from Greece. I already have the idea prior to getting in the place but I did let myself fall into it and the bastard and the bar was able to wheedle out about $50 from me. Most tourists know this scam, but hey, it's a part of the experience.