Second and third island

Trip Start Jul 09, 2008
Trip End Jul 23, 2008

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Tuesday, July 15, 2008

The previous time we were waiting for the boat to take us from Vormsi to Hiiumaa, our second island. Well, about that one we'll be very short: from what we could see trough the raindrops it made a very wet impression on us. Add to that we already took two extra days by stopping at Vormsi, and you'll understand that we decided to race trough this flooding island.

By early evening we were on the ferry to Saaremaa, where dry weather welcomed us at a stunning campplace by the sea: all alone, orchids in the sand, sunset, red-throated divers (birds) on the sea, and trees to dry our wet stuff. What can two cyclists wish more for?

 Day one we cycled to Panga Pank, a cape that attracts many tourists for good reasons: white cliffs, waves that go all directions, fossiles,... We had a good rest there and decided that we might as well camp there. Never before camped on the edge of a sea-cliff. Getting up with a sleepy head the next morning would be really dangerous.

Close to Panga Pank I went to a farm to ask for water. According to Mara the old farmer asked us in Russian if we'd not rather have some beer :-) Then he guided me trough his garden, still speaking Russian to me, a very happy person. He got a bucket of water out of his old old well, very good water. By that time I was replying to him in Dutch, fun to have a conversation like this. I'll never forget him and his farm, if you want to see farm-life like it was some sixty years ago, go there. We feel sorry now that we didn't accept his invitation to have a beer.

. Day two was great in term of wildness. We cycled to the far north of Saaremaa, to end up in the most remote places one can imagine. Just one road along the coastline, no houses, no cars, met two persons in the whole afternoon. We had a break at another cape and Mara saw a Black-veined White (butterfly) laying its eggs on a leaf.

Still fresh from our rest yesterday we cycled on and ended up in yet another beautiful, quiet camping place by the sea. By this time we were getting convinced that the Baltics must be full of them!
Day three was kind of a rush. We left early to get to Kuressaare, the islands largest town. We were dying for some city-life and we got it. Searching for the alternative scene there, we found a Derek sitting at a cafe.

He invited us for a drink if we would tell him the story of our trip. We accepted his invitation and got to know about organic farming on Saaremaa. Finally we went to have lunch together in the one and only organic restaurant in Kuressaare.

There Anu, a friend of his, adviced us to go to Kaugatoma, a beach full of fossiles. Being open for this kind of enounters is great while travelling; it's fun to share your stories and these people often tell you things you will never find in a travelguide.
We would gladly have stayed a bit longer there, but duty called. That means we had a boat to catch the next morning and we still had to get way closer to the harbour. We were in a pretty isolated place again when an even smaller road took our attention. We found an old harbour, meaning two wave-brakers ten meters apart from eachother. It had a bench and a fire-place... again a dream of a campplace. We give a few dead trees their final moments and went on reading in our books until half past twelve.

By that time, more then an hour after the sun went down, it finally got too dark to see the letters.
Latvija is coming, read all about it in the next edition! friendly greetings,
Mara and Tom
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