American Samoa, Day 3
Trip Start
Sep 09, 2008
1
10
23
Trip End
Sep 30, 2008
Vaitogi,
Tutuila,
American Samoa
Thursday, September 18, 2008
This morning, after yet another fabulous sleep (interestingly, since we are in a basic cottage with no AC - tropical breezes are GREAT!), we started with coffee and breakfast. Ben found us a ripe papaya, which we ate with relish. I don't know if this type is different than we can grow back home, but it certainly tasted great.
As we mentioned in yesterday's entry, we agreed to take Deb's daughter, Rain, to school in Olesega so that we could use the lodge truck, visit the other island, and maximize our snorkeling on our last Ofu morning. Wed rove the distance of Ofu, crossed the bridge (a Corps of Engineers work) and captured another island - this makes three of the six that make up American Samoa and provided a neat view of Sunu'itao Peak (the jagged peak in a lot of our photos)
Ofu Island from Olesega
. We bagged a couple of photos, then tried a new part of the National Park beach. Once again, our snorkeling expectations were exceeded...this stretch has the reputation for having the best sorkeling in Polynesia, and I believe it! A couple of shots here, but they sorely lack the drama and beauty of being here.Alas, we did not have enough time to see the Manta Rays, Reef Sharks or Sea Turtles, but we needed to pack up and say goodby to a very special part of the world.
To Deb and Ben, we deeply appreciate your sharing your place and helping us experience something truly special. Keep up your efforts...this place is important to maintain.
Our return to Tutuila was uneventful (our favorite kind of flying) - even the fog-filled cabin was passe' by this time. Our return to the Pago Pago area drew a sharp contrast between Tutuila and the Manu'a islands...Tutuila seems almost third-world in its crowds, haphazard development and overall litter-strewn environment. Adding in the large numbers of semi-feral dogs roaming the streets of almost every village, we thought that another day in Ofu would have been the way to go.
But things have a way of showing their sunny side...the reason we returned to Tutuila was to participate in an umu feast at Tisa's Barefoot Bar on Alega Beach
Sunu'itao Peak - Ofu Island
. OK, first, an umu is a Samoan oven consisting of heated rocks layered with banana leaves, taro leaves, and delectible foods. Second, Tisa is a local legend and environmental advocate that is slowly trying to help Samoans understand the beauty and value of their environment and culture - and that the two can and should coexist. There is too much to go into here about Tisa's, but I recommend you visit her website...really cool stuff...The food was traditional Samoan fare - breadfruit, papaya, squash, fish (swordfish tonight), taro leaves in coconut cream (yummy!), lamb, pork, turkey, octopus, etc. Unbelievably good food served in a traditional manner - long shared table covered with banana leaves. Utensils? The very basic in fingers...
If you ever get the opportunity, DO NOT MISS THIS!!
Got back very late in our typical Samoan rental car (more about that tomorrow)...one more day in American Samoa to go!
Comments
Almost feeling the salt spray
The account of your adventures has made my day. What wonderful photos and entries to share with all of us who are green with envy! It all looks wonderful. Continue to enjoy...xoxo A