R: From Luang Prabang, we took a Songthaew to Nong Khiaw. Back in 2002, I did this trip by boat up the Nam Ou River, but today the road is good enough. We found a nice bamboo bungalowa above the river where naked kids were playing all afternoon in order to escape the unbearable heat.
T: So did I (not naked), in the late afternoon, when only some kids were jumping fearlessly from rocks into the gushing stream. In the shallow and calm waters near the riverbank, the parents were washing themselves and brushing their teeth. Since the riverbed was dotted with visible and invisible limestone rocks, it was predestined that I rammed my toe into a hidden rock while swimming. Whatever, I am used to damaged feet since I met some edges or poles on Southamerican sidewalks.
R: There was a village festival in Nong Khiaw by the temple. We joined the party after dinner, watching traditional dancers, drinking Beer Lao with the locals and joining in the square dance style dance. Big fun!
T: It was a great and relaxing time there but we were looking forward to escape the heat. Our next goal, Luang Nam Tha in the very north of Laos, was unfortunately not a direct connection. We had to take a crammed minibus, four hours to Udomxai, always nervous if we get a connection to Luang Nam Tha. Luckily, all worked out well, and we arrived in the well-lit main street of Luang Nam Tha. Hungry and exhausted, we deliberately followed a young woman carrying her baby to her hostel. And that was a good choice!
R: At that time we did not know how good a choice - after a nice day on a motor-bike I became seriously ill. Rather high fever came and went, I was terribly week and could hardly walk, nevermind eat. Thomas took good care of me, bringing food from the restaurant across the street (which later became our favourite spot in town), making my bed and bringing me to local hospital.
T: By the way, it was not cooler here at all.
R: The hospital was pretty new and looked like just like you imagine a bush hospital: Open, airy roofed corridors from which you looked into the garden, five-bed rooms and lots of idle staff none of whom spoke English. I was first checked by two nurses but since my fever was pretty low (it always was at midday) they told me to take paracetamol and come back if the fever rose. It did, that very night.
The next day, we even saw a doctor in his shabby little office, my blood was taken for examination, the results of which we learned a few hours later. I did not have Malaria or Typhoid Fever which was good news, but on the other hand I would have much preferred to know what I have and how it can be treated. The Lab guy we were talking to was a German, Dr. Guenther, really nice but definitely not the Indiana Jones type of bush doctor you might think of. He suggested either going to Thailand ('They really have good doctors there' - and what about you?!) or sending more blood to Vientiane for examination.
T: Rebecca recovered from whatever strange fever she had and we finally startedour 2 day jungle trek. After that trek, Dr. Guenter reassured us that if the blood examination in the capital had revealed something serious, he would have been informed.
The trek was as sweaty as you imagine a jungle trek. The first day, we entered the cooler jungle with 6 other participants (Americans, Irish and a Swiss) and two guides after being exposed to full sunlight for 30min. We passed mud-encrusted water buffalos, giant trees with buttress roots and a refreshing waterfall. Some of us were attacked by thirsty leeches having no respect of guarding textiles like shoes or even underwear. Rebecca and I were lucky. Our way along a little river opened to the first settlements of the Akha tribe who would be our hosts this night. It was a warm welcome: After a stroll from our simple wooden 'guesthouse' to the village, we had a great buffalo meat dinner and Lao Lao whiskey thereafter. To our surprise young Akha grils cam in and invited us to lay down for a massage.
R: Wake up, yours was not young. You had a fat old lady!
T: However, this is what you need after 7h walking.
The second day was a bit boring and very strenous: The secondary forest was lighter and exposed us much more to the sun than the cool primary forest of the first day. And then we had to climb for 30minutes after a (too) early lunch. We finished happily the trek reaching our pick-up minibus while keeping a good mood with the sweets we brought from Luang Nam Tha.
R: In all, it was a goof experience, the jungle, the leeches, the bare-breasted tribeswomen and the communal bamboo hut, but we were glad when it was over. Trekking in the heat is not really our cup of tea. Plus, we really missed the views you only get in alpine surroundings.
After the trek, it was finally time to say goodbye to this wonderful country of smiling people, kids playing in the river, the empty roads and the peace of a deserted rice field. We got a farewell present from our favourite restaurant, the Coffee House, and our host and her baby waved goodbye when our bus drove off to the border.
We can only recommend travelling in Laos for all those seeking tremendous photo opportunities (Michael K.!), friendly people, rougher roads and still rather untouched villages. My parents will probably go next year.
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