The Far North
Trip Start
Jun 05, 2007
1
66
82
Trip End
Jan 06, 2009
Muang Sing,
Lao Peoples Dem Rep
Sunday, July 27, 2008
From Houayxai on the border the brand new road was fantastic to Luang Nam Tha, and then a 60 km dirt road north to Mung Sing, basically a dirt road with a few buildings along it. Here we checked out our options for trekking out into the mountains, which were limited due to flooding and mud from the rainy season. But we decided for an overnight trek to a village perched atop one of the mountains in the clouds to the North of town.
That night we sat on the roof watching the rain clouds roll across the valley towards town as the sun found its way down and the light grew dim. We had a local dinner at a great place, and then watched the rain before an early bedtime. We set out early the next day, walking through a few villages, trying to communicate with the local boys, and then tiptoeing along the dikes seperting the rice paddies in between. We came to the foothills of the mountains, and then into the forest we climbed. After a little, the rain started on us, and we were wet soon after. It was still amazing though. The rain stopped, and we came to a nice clearing to sit down for our lunch out of banana leafs. A fantastic meat dish, green beans, and chile sauce. With the Lao staple, sticky rice. After letting our very big lunch digest a bit we set off for the village in the clouds. About an hour left the rain came again, and this time, with a vengeance. Our path became a river quickly, and anything that had dried up from before was now, absolutely drenched. The mudriver/path we followed carefully because it was very slippery, and past us bound one of the locals. We were amazed.
Once we got to the village the rain was slowing, but still everyone, including the animals were hiding out. We stripped down, dried off, and put on our only other clothes. Then we had some lao-lao (whiskey) and tea with the villagers who had come around. We spent the evening keeping warm, teaching a little English to the villagers, and then a delicious dinner of BBQ water buffalo, green beans, and steam rice. Afterwards we were subjected to a Lao massage, basically a series of pinching and pulling, that is rarely very comfortable. We all layed side by side, and the chatter between the masseuses was non-stop. I can only imagine what they were saying. We were asked for tips on the sly, though we knew we were not supposed to, and that we had already paid, not to mention, it was not exactly enjoyable.
I almost forgot, after the rain stopped that evening this huge argument broke out in the village and we asked our guide to interpret. He told us that lightning had struck a tree the night before, and when it fell it killed three buffalo. The argument was over whether or not they should eat the meat, for they had never seen an animal killed this way, and were afraid that it was the work of bad spirits. Others were saying it had happened to another village, and that they had eaten the meat and were fine. Crazy voodoo stuff. They also have these giant swings in the villages to celebrate their coming to earth. Not much has changed for many of these villages. Time has past them by.
That morning there was a mist of clouds but we made it down into the valley with no rain. We hiked along the ridge of a mountain watching rice farmers on the incredibley steep fields working away and enjoying the views of the Chinese mountains in the distance and the water filled valley that came closer and closer. Our hike was great, our guide was wonderful. When we returned he gave us a small keep sake from a village nearby. Colorful woven scarfs. Tom got the purple one:)
That evening after a bus ride back to Luang Namtha and a long awaited hot shower we walked down to the local night market. It was in a small brick laid square. Along the edges there were women set up with small tables and a number of edible delights. We sat down for some soup, some of the best I have ever had, called Koy Soye. The sauce is somewhat like bolognese but you add fresh mint, basil, onion, homemade rice noodles and fresh lime. The flavors are amazing. Afterwards we tried a few spring rolls, some crazy pork skin and chatted with our French treking friends as the sun went into the clouds and the breeze picked up. It was beautiful.
It seems that time has stood still in Northern Laos, one feels as though they are on the edge of the world. With China and Myanmar only a few km away and only one main road coming in and out, people continue to live as they have always. The mountains surround you and the valley is dotted with tiny villages. There are no borders for these people, the rules of the west do not apply.
