Hawke's Bay

  Napier, New Zealand
Saturday, October 20, 2007

We were welcomed in Napier by Michael and Marie Beattie, parents of Justin, whom we met in Ofu during our 5 weeks there.  When I phoned and let her know we were coming, Marie told us she would take some more steak out of the freezer.  Our sore hiking muscles exclaimed in glee.

After a big steak dinner, and a good rest in a comfortable bed, we took to exploring Napier town.  We wandered down along the ocean front walk with great gardens and views of Hawke Bay.  Then found the "promenade" and which was very reminiscent of Santa Monica, and we found a little cafe to have a coffee, and people watch a bit.

Napier

Though not as entertaining as SM, we did find some fantastic fashion statements, such as the white T-shirts bearing such remarks as "Pump up the Jams" in odd fluorescent colors.  Undoubtedly, the males wearing such shirts are also sporting the "metro-hawk" a Kiwi version of the mo-hawk that doesn't neccessitate shaving all the hari off of the sides of your head, nor is it as completely stigmatizing as the large pointy hairdo's popular with punk bands like Rancid.

After a bit more of Napier we drove south to Havelock North, and up to Mt. Tama Scenic Reserve.  The first part of our walk was to summit Mt. Tama, and have the best panoramic view of Hawke Bay that you can get.

Mt. Tama walk

The ridgeline

We then followed a nice loop that took us down the ridge line and deposited us into the small Redwood Grove.  The most interesting part about the walk were the oyster shell fossils still very evident on many of the rocks.  This whole area was formed by the same explosion that formed Lake Taupo, only around 1000 years ago.  After mosying around the grove for a bit, and a short tiff about the route to take, we went by Amanda's suggestion, through the wetlands.  All would have been fine, except we missed a turn for the trail we were supposed to take, and ended up on a trail heading for he summit again, which we brazenly abandoned for the road which we could pick out at the top of a steep grassy slope.  No swearing, but my tired legs were very upset with Amanda, or as I have come to call her lately, The Great Navigator.

Another fantastic evening with the Beatties, and on Sunday Marie took us for a personalized tour of wine country.  First we stopped by the farmer's market for some basic provisions, cheese, salami, bread, which would be essential on the road.  Then we dropped Michael back at the house, and headed to the wineries.  Marie took us to some of her personal favorites, which we quite enjoyed, and then we took the advice of a taster at Silani and headed to a couple smaller more boutique places.  We did convince Marie to take a couple tastes, even though she was tasting.  I was in love with Bridge Pa, although their vines were quite young, they were producing wines of suprising complexity.  At Alpha Domus we met Alan Watts, not the author, but a character of an old man who we just fell in love with.  Our last stop was at Craggy Range, the fancy winery, whom Marie warned us would be a little stuffy.  And she was right, although I did think their wines were top notch, Amanda didn't agree.

Craggy Range

We headed home, now that it was 5 oclock and the cellar doors were all closing, and we were greeted by Michael, and Marie's father, gin in hand.  I sat down with them, and a gin of my own, and we had a good talk about everything and anything Kiwi and American.  Amanda retreated inside with Marie, her mother, and the two daughters, girl time I suppose.  Then we came together for a dinner of roast hoggart (a slightly older sheep than lamb).  Gorgeous.

In the morning we said our thank yous and good byes, and headed south, for Wellington.