The Northland (The edge of the world)

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  Cape Reinga, New Zealand
Thursday, October 4, 2007

We had a long weekend to see the Northland.  Leaving the farm on thursday we trucked it all the way to the Bay of Islands.  There we took a small ferry to Russell, a quaint old town, full of history.  We walked the town and then up a large hill to take in the view.  The Bay of Islands as the area is so perfectly named is a very large bay of aqua blue water which is dotted by rolling green islands.  The area is known for the fishing and since Tom and I did not have the cash to jump on a boat we headed out after admiring the scenery.  From the town we ventured to a remote peninsula known as Rawhiti.  There is supposedly a town center but all we found was a small closed store and a family campground that looked as though it was abandoned 20 years ago, alas the campground was open and we parked the van for our first night in the back. 
The view was of a rocky bay, which we took in while the sun set, drinking wine and eating undercooked split pea soup, the wine and the view filled us enough to get the soup down!
The next morning we rolled out of our sleeping bags into the sun for a hike to a small bay that was once used as a whaling station.  The hike took us up through the bush and down to an overlook of our destination.  The bay was silent except for a sailboat who had stayed the night towing out.  We practically ran down to the beach where the crystal clear water lapped against the stoney shore.  Once down there we found rocks covered in oysters and a grassy field covering the remainder of the whaling buildings.  After a short snoop around the structure we went for a swim, actually we went for a run, jump, shout and return wade, but it was refreshing nonethless.  After basking in the sun, tom persuaded me to try an oyster, right of the rock, which was so good that I had to have another.  The freshest oysters we have ever had.  The hike and the bay were magical, we found ourselves alone the entire time enjoying a very warm, brilliant spring day.
Once we got back to the car, all smiles, we jumped in, ready to drive.
We only stopped for a small lunch and then continued all the way to the end of the world, the New Zealand world anyway.  Cape Reinga is at the northern tip of NZ and is where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean.  Standing at the lighthouse that marks the spot, one feels like they are on a small tip of land in a world of water.  The Tasman and the Pacific violently crash into eachother making waves and white water where they meet. 
After a night and a hike at Cape Reinga we were back on the road with a short stop at the giant sand dunes, dumped onto the land by the raging seas just north.  The dunes are surreal towering over the rolling hills but giving views of grazing sheep and tall trees.
We continued south on the west coast towards Hokianga Harbor.  Once there we stopped in a small town called KohuKohu which has many of its old houses intact and redone.  There is a small mainstreet but in general things are very quite.  We were about to get on the ferry to pass this little town when a sign and a paragraph about the best hostile in the world intrigued us.  We went a few mor km down the road to find "The Tree House" which did end up being a wonderful timeless sanctuary.  The hostile was a well built wooden structure that was placed within the hills, covered in wrap around porches and views of a one family farm.  There were animals everywhere, including the biggest pig I have ever seen named pigglet.  We were able to stay in the van and use their shower and bathroom for a very cheap price and were even invited to a birthday party.  Phil the owner of the place was turning 60 so we were invited to a night of bluegrass and great food.  As we stared at the stars outside the small schoolhouse where the event was taking place tom and I counted all the lucky ones we had come across on our small journey.  We were very happy and content.  We even got a great breakfast, from the towns cafe, the following morning of eggs benedict and warm coffee before our ferry ride. 
Once on the south side of the bay we traveled to the Kauari tree forest.  We walked through the giant old trees and saw new groves as well.  I wondered what it would be like to walk through these forests throughout New Zealand before most of the trees were cut down.  The oldest are not that tall but they are very very wide, there branches spreading to make a large canopy..

Whangamumu Bay

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The edge of the world	The tip	Cape Reinga walk	The beach
Giant Sand Dunes	Hokianga Harbor	Sheepy	Hokianga Beach
The Cathedral

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