Good morning Vietnam!

  Sapa, Vietnam
Saturday, May 17, 2008

On my way to Vietnam, I wanted to stop at the rice terraces of YuanYuang.The morning bus leaves Kunming at 10.40h every day, and a ticket costs 82 yuan.Its not exacly a bus model that was just delivered from the factory, and so it's no surprise to me that we have a flat tyre

Tyreproblems on the highway

on the way, and loose about 2 hours to fix it.The trip finally took 6 hours.Weather continues to be bad with heavy rain.The excursion to the rice terraces can be organised on the spot, better to be in a small group to share the costs of the vehicle, a minibus costs 300 yuan, a tuktuk around 200 yuan which includes an early morning sunrise trip, and a late afternoon sunset trip to different villages that are very pittoresque too.But the terraces themselves are just great, its well worth  the detour, but weather conditions are an important factor for viewing these amazing terraces,

Rice terraces Yuanyang II

and making good photos.Then it's even worth to stay a couple of days in this  peaceful region, and make some treks.I would put the natural beauty of the rice terraces in YuanYuang on a equal level with those in Banaue, on Luzon, in the Philippines, although they are quite different in design and structure, both unique in their own way.

Rice terraces Yuanyang III

To continue for Vietnam, there is a 7.30h morning shuttle bus to Nansha, 1 hour , where  I easily  connected to the 9.am minibus direction border post, in the chinese town of Hekou, 48 yuan,  about 155km, its a long trip, as the road is very rough, especially after rain. There is a new highway almost finished that should shorten the travel time considerably once its open.
The last few meters in China I walk across the border bridge over the Red River, and into Vietnam:
"Good Morning, Vietnam!"

Good morning, Vietnam!

From the Vietnamese border town of Lao Cai ( the original city was destroyed during the 1979 invasion of Vietnam by the Chinese army, the only attractions for visitors is the border gate with China and the road to Sapa) to the hill station of Sapa, it is  a  35,000 dong ride.At first glance,  it  looks like a real fortune, especially when coming from China, but it's actually just 2 usdollars!
Arriving in Sapa, it was really raining cats and dogs, and so I took refuge in the local cafeteria, not the worst place to be, with fresh croissants and cappuchino to choose from.
Sapa came into existence as a hill station during the French occupation.
Previously a Black H'mong village, it was 'discovered' early in the twentieth century and developed as a resort for French military officers, civil servants and business people. Its marked similarity to alpine areas in France or Switzerland, and its temperate climate made it a haven from Hanoi's clammy winter dampness and sultry humid summer.
By 1940, it was a sizeable town populated almost entirely by French citizens.
As France's grip on the country weakened, the buildings emptied.
After their victory at Dien Bien Phu, the Viet Minh demolished most of the buildings.
One that escaped was the summer residence of the Governor General of Indochina, which was commandeered by the Secretary General of the Vietnamese Communist Party as his holiday retreat. That was also flattened during the 1979 Chinese invasion.
Today, a few buildings have been restored, notably the church, shelled by the French as the Viet Minh began to advance through the northern mountains. Apart from that, the only enduring memento of the French presence is the inclusion of open fires and chimneys in many buildings - a welcome addition as the temperature often slips below zero.

H'Mong women, Sapa market

There are many excursions and trekking tours to be undertaken from Sapa, both organized on your own, or by one of the numerous travel agencies in town.
One of the most beautiful waterfalls in Sapa (Silver Waterfall)

Silver waterfall, Sapa

can be reached by motorbike, its about 6 USD with driver, a very pleasant ride along rice fields, and local villages.The falls are really breathtaking.
A little further up,  you will be on top of Tram Ton Pass or  "Heaven Gate", a  long and large valley on one side (Lao Chai), and high mountains on the other side, of which the Fansipan (3143 meters)  is the highest mountains in Indochina.
Cat cat village where some local Black H'Mong folk live is also worth the effort, not too far by Sapa.
I went there by motorbike as well.
The colourful Can Cau Saturday market is the number one  in the region, and not too touristy.

Can Cau market

It can be combined with the Sunday market in Bac Ha which is much bigger, but also attracts a much bigger crowd.

Flower H'Mong in Can Cau

Its a 4 hours trip by bus from Sapa, but it is a much better idea to combine these 2 markets and spend at least 2 nights in Bac Ha.
Many accomodation options available from 60,000 dong onwards (4 USD up), the only time they are really busy is the weekends.
Bac Ha has one of the most interesting ethnic markets in Vietnam, and possibly everywhere in South East Asia.
 Those fortunate enough to be able to pay 10000 dongs, or USD 0.75, arrived at the back of a motorcycle. Most came on foot, or with horses,  from villages far away.

Bac Ha sunday market

Even the old hunched lady was not going to miss the weekly party. Among all the ethnic groups,  the Flower H'Mong women stood apart with their colourful dress. They wear a number of skirts and underskirts all made with very vibrant  fabric.. then the tops are embroided,  with flower motifs, and their heads are covered with elaborately shaped scarfs.

he can only hope that no bird flu virus!

Yes, its true,  Bac Ha market is similar to Can Cau, with the same ethnic groups, mainly Red and Flower H'Mongs, but it has a much bigger livestock section, with almost all animals under the rainbow for sale, including dogs, unfortunately!

Bac Ha fish market

Back to Lao Cai to get the Sunday night express train for Hanoi, Vietnam's capital.