My day of driving daringly
Trip Start Jun 24, 2011
21Trip End Jul 14, 2011
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Where I stayed
The Salmon, Foca
With a full stomach and another look at the map I set off on another excursion to locate this elsuive village; it took me to Sinanovici and Bobovica, but frustratingly not the desired destination. With the afternoon wearing on I considered conceding victory to the mountains when I noticed a small path indicated on the road map that did not exist in the guidebook. Using my blind reconing, I established that the path I had casually observed at lunch might very well be the road I was after. A final attempt confirmed, I headed back through Umoljanir and up a rocky, rutted road to the rim. Taking an even worse goat track, I slowly made my way down another perilous pass; not far along I ran into an old man repairing a fence
With this little hamlet somewhat an obsenssion by this stage, I donned a small pack and set off once again into some breathtaking environs. After a steep ascent and likewise descent, I found myself walking along an isolated path in a bowl of moutain peaks. The appearance of a car packed with Brits was unexpected - we had passed each other on the trails several times that day - and they gave me a five minute lift further up the road until the turn-off to Konjic. My hiking was punctuated with some quick stops at water fountains (brilliant) until after an hour and forty two mintues I wandered into Lukmoir. Elation!
The tiny little town seems like an odd departure from real time; a man reaping crops with a wooden scythe and an old woman handwashing her clothes spoke of a different existence. A curious little old lady spotted me and shouted a whole bunch of Bosnian at me. Deciding it was safest to follow her and do as she asked (lest she put the evil eye on me) I was led to her house, where she directed me to remove my shoes and join her inside. The tiny room was sweltering from the heat radiating out of the little wood stove, and again after some hurried Bosnian she had me sitting on the little bed and awaiting..
A short trip around the village allowed me to stumble on some stecci - monumental tombstones carved with early christian and pagan motifs. Darting down a hiking track (serious running out of time now) I managed to spot Bobovica village in the distance. This gave me some understanding of the miles I had covered today, and with the time on the other side of six o'clock it was really time to wear out my socks. The journey back was just as breathtaking, though it was with much relief when the Salmon popped into view on eight. Clambering aboard, removing the boots and soothing the blisters, it became apparent that my trip to Foca would have to be a hurried one.
Discovering Robot did not know any streets in Foca, my chances of finding a hotel were greatly reduced. I wandered around the town centre, hoping to maybe discover a pansion, when I came to realise a most curious caucus race was going on; young people everywhere were walking around the block over and over. After participating in this program myself (what else was I going to do?) I admitted defeat and returned to the Salmon.
A night in the car was only mostly horrible, but thankfully the exhaustion of the days adventures had sucked the energy out of me. Waking in the morning and finding this internet cafe, it was nice to sit and jot out some thoughts in the comfort of a building. Today (tomorrow in Blog entry) will probably see a journey into Stutjeska National Park and hopefully the locating of actual accommodation for the night.