From the ridiculous to the sublime

We're having to set the alarm clock on this trip a lot more than we ever thought we would.  In fact, so optimistic were we about lie-ins and the lack of early mornings that we didn't even bring an alarm clock with us.  We had to buy one as soon as we arrived in Rishikesh, less than a week into our trip, and we've had to use it with alarming (oops, pardon the pun) regularity since.  So, 2 days ago it was set for 5am, so that we could be on the 6am bus to Vietiane, an 8 hour journey according to our guidebook.  We got to the bus station at 5.30 and there was a bus there with its engine going, apparently going to Vientiane, and as soon as we got on it left, as if it had been waiting for us and our western money.  We don't know if it was the 5am one leaving late, or the 6am leaving early, and we were a bit worried that it wasn't actually the bus we wanted, but sure enough, 6 (not 8) hours later, we arrived at Vietiane's South Bus Station.  The journey was OK; there were a couple of toilet stops, which we had been concerned there might not be, we had seats all the way and they were reasonably clean and comfortable, we had some nice nibbles with us, such as the fake pringles and the real oreos mentioned earlier, so it was fine. 

01 Pha Thau Luang

Vientiane is the least like a capital city of any city or town we've ever been to.  It's just so quiet.  It's like a small provincial english town.  And it's rather nice for that.  After 5 full days of pretty hard travelling we've decided to really slow down and take it easy here.  Our first afternoon we scoped out the hotels to find a nice one to move to yesterday.  This is because we had some money left from our present of the Halong Bay cruise and wanted to spend it here on a little luxury.  And then we did our favourite thing which is to check out the restaurants.  The first night's meal was a bit of a disappointment - reasonably good pasta, but nothing to knock your socks off.  Yesterday however was a great day.  First of all we moved into our new hotel which is absolutely lovely.  It's the usual thing - lots of dark wood, crisp white linen, fridge, big TV with Star and HBO (it's such a bonus to get both - a choice of rubbish films!) air-conditioning (very important in this sweltering heat - 33 degrees at the moment; 11am) and it's great.  Then we had a nice Lao lunch of long-bean salad (immeasurably improved by making it more Thai-like and adding lots of lime juice) and Laap, pork this time.  Then in the afternoon, some of the best cake we've had yet, that was actually moist as cake should be, rather than being like a powdery brick.  And then, the creme de la creme - dinner at La Cave des Chateaux.  Mmm, heaven.  Real french-style food, well cooked with skill and care, and such a joy to eat after so many disappointing meals.  We had steak with cognac, cream and green peppercorn sauce, and confit duck with apple and blackberry sauce, both served with an amazing potato dish which is difficult to describe - kind of soft and crispy at the same time, with soft onions and garlic mixed in.  It was all delicious and so, so welcome, and we're eternally grateful to the restaurateur for giving us such a great meal.  So much so that we're going back tonight.  I just hope they can live up to the high expectation we've now set for them.  (R)

02 Patuxi Memorial

03 Wat Neung ceiling