Still in Goa's grip

Trip Start Nov 01, 2006

179

Trip End Oct 31, 2007

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Flag of India Panjim, Goa, India
Wednesday, December 13, 2006

Yesterday we tried to leave Goa, albeit reluctantly as we had loved beach life so much, for Hampi but Air Deccan had different ideas and had cancelled our flight so instead we had to stay in Goa another night. We didn't mind too much! It seemed a little bit pointless to go back to Benaulim, although we did toy with the idea, because we'd just be retracing our steps, so we decided instead to go to Panjim, the state capital. It was a rather nice place with some interesting Portuguese architecture, and generally a much more relaxed, European feel than the rest of India. This morning we took a bus to Old Goa, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the original capital of Goa until it was abandoned after cholera and malaria outbreaks in the 18th century. It was really interesting to walk around and see some very European-style churches. It reaffirmed to us how very tolerant India is of all religions, that the Christian church is still allowed to have such a strong presence here. Having shot our budget during our week in Goa we were trying hard to save some money, and were very proud of ourselves for getting the local bus to and from Old Goa when most tourists, even backpackers we suspect, would have taken a taxi. The restaurant next to our hotel was also an absolute find in that respect, so we ate every meal there, most averaging about 50p for everything! (R)
Two major developments to tell you about: (1) I've had a haircut; (2) I've shaved.

01 Thug in Panjim

On the first, I've gone for the 'traveller special', which involves mumbling to the local hairdresser something about 'just wanting a bit of a trim' and then having nearly all of the hair on your head removed. On the second, the internet hate campaign that has been recently raging about the few unsightly wisps of hair residing on my chin finally won out and I gave in to conformity - too long a lawyer, I guess. Travelling for extended periods allows one to experiment a lot with facial hair but I think that the 'beard for a year' look is just not my style. Instead I've gone for the newly popular 'scary-egg' look. Last item of moment: my necklace broke today. It's been with me since Rishikesh and I was momentarily sorry to see its tiny beads scatter across the grimy guesthouse floor. But then I went out and bought another one for 30 pence, so that was alright. The thing with not being able to buy anything substantial (for want of luggage space to store it), is that you have to wear anything you do buy. By the time we get to South America, we'll probably both look like the Michelin Man. (T)