Angels and Giants

Trip Start Nov 01, 2006

179

Trip End Oct 31, 2007

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Where I stayed

Devi Bhawan Jodhpur

(Jodhpur hotels)

Flag of India Jodhpur, India
Wednesday, November 29, 2006

Today we set off for Jodhpur, a major Rajasthan city a couple of hundred miles south east of Jaiselmer. We were on the morning bus, leaving at 0600 hours (yes, Sir!). Although the bus was described as 'Indian Deluxe' by our hotel people, it still had all the hallmarks of non-deluxe travel, viz: a man clearing his nostrils onto the floor of the bus and then wiping his hands on the curtains; and each of the supposed sleeping bunks 'designed' for one person being crammed with three or four.

It was a welcome relief to find our hotel, the Devi Bhawan, which has lush gardens and even a swimming pool. This is the first of our so-called 'luxury fund' nights. Let me explain; when we first planned the trip we worked out a subsistence-level budget which would, we hoped, be enough for us to travel from place to place, have enough to eat, and sleep with a roof over our heads in each of the countries we were to visit

01 YOU were lucky!

. The idea was that the travel experience would be reasonably comfortable, but no more. On the other hand we knew that from time to time we would need a bit of pampering as it's a jolly hard life not having to work and just traveling the world for a year. So we came up with the idea of the 'luxury fund' and saved extra hard for the year before the trip, denying ourselves some of the treats, like regular meals out etc., that we'd decadently become accustomed to as London DINKYs. Even better, some very generous wedding presents from family, friends and work gave the fund a late but much appreciated boost. Anyway, once we were sat drinking lemon and ginger tea and reading our books on our own private porch outside our frankly massive room, we both agreed the belt tightening (and shameless begging-bowl approach) had been worth it.

The next day we went to Jodhpur Fort, which was the most important reason for coming here. Described by Kipling (not the one famed for his exceedingly good cakes) as the work of angels and giants, Meherangargh Fort is absolutely massive and towers above the blue-washed roofs of the city below (Jodhpur is known as the Blue City). The fort is awe-inspiring and well worth the 250R entry fee (which anyway includes a fascinating audio commentary). After our dose of culture we headed down the hill to the Bazars where, apparently, 'everything is for sale, Sir'

02 Off she went, with a trumpety trump!

. We limited ouselves to some samosas, a bada mirch and a delicious golden yellow Makhania lassi, an ice cold yoghurt drink made with cardamom and saffron. We then traipsed across town for a quick visit to the Aardvark Tickling Museum (known here by the handy acronym ATM) and then to the station ticket booking office. After about an hour we secured tickets for the three legs of the long journey south that we hope will take us to the beach paradise of Goa. The route is: Udaipur - Ahmedebad; Ahmedebad - Mumbai; and Mumbai - Madgaon (Goa). Of course we could fly but that would be too easy by half. We like the suffering, honest. Tomorrow we travel by government bus to the temples of Ranakpur, on route to Udaipur. (T)

More soon! x

p.s. if it seems we're doing less joint entries than before, that's because we are. We've got a bit behind so R is on the computer next to me, frantically tapping away at the next entry. It's the latest craze; "parallel blogging". (T) (still)