Day 5: Cape Coast Escape

  Cape Coast, Ghana
Friday, April 7, 2006

Leaving Sister Perpetua on the case and Seto's mate following up behind, we decide to branch out and start exploring the country. I'll deal with the police report before I fly home. We head west for Cape Coast, Elmina and Kakum National Park. Again, the trusty tro-tro does the 2.5-hour trip with maximum efficiency, minimum expense; just over £1 to Cape Coast.

02_Cape Coast Bucket Girl

The towns of Cape Coast and Elmina were once primary centres of the slave trade back in the 1700s, when Britain and Portugal were vying for supremacy. Judging by the welcome from the locals you would think we were still at it! I don't know if the chip-on-the-shoulder approach is designed to induce some sort of guilt-trip-fuelled generosity or it's a topic of shared heritage they feel they must discuss, but accusations that I'm somehow responsible frankly piss me off.

That's not to say there weren't good people there happy to have a chat. The proud cocoa nut ladies, the three brightly uniformed school girls, and the bloke hanging around 'London Bridge' were all friendly examples.

01_Cocoa Nuts Ladies

03_Cape Coast School Girls

04_The Bead Men

But if I had to ascribe an overall mood to the towns, it would be brooding, and it doesn't do them any favours. Still, the sight of the fishing boats coming in to sell their catch at Elmina harbour is not easily forgotten; like an oil painting in gentle motion.

05_Elmina Harbour