Carrying Strap for Your Convenience
Trip Start
Sep 07, 2008
1
13
148
Trip End
Dec 09, 2008

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Today's post is for my dear friend Godiva. Last year, she took a daring trip through Ecuador, and she gave me some advice about my travels. She said to look for the little details that are surprising and different. So here you go, Godiva, here is the first batch of everyday Greek culture observations.
1. I went to the supermarket for the first time today. I managed to find most of what I was looking for. Struck out on face cleanser, though, since I couldn't read the Greek bottles to know if I was buying cleanser, toner, or lotion. Despite the tight aisles, nobody said "excuse me" or "pardon me" or "sorry." I've read that Greeks sometimes think Americans are overly polite or fake for saying such things so often, but that there's a linguistic explanation: like the Romance languages, Greek has a formal and an informal version of address. If you use the formal version, there's no need to add extra polite words because the formal version is itself the polite form.
I got a huge kick out of some of the supermarket product packaging, which included a little bit of mangled English, my favorite being the "baby puder" I picked up in the pharmacy section. And I didn't notice until I got back to the apartment that the toilet paper package comes complete with a carrying strap. This is because nobody drives to the supermarket. You walk there and carry your bags back home by hand.
2. Also some sights around my apartment. The street signs are not on poles or hanging from traffic light lines.
Continuing on the subject of signs, there is a butcher shop on my walk to the classroom building that strikes me for the poignancy with which they advertise the goat and lamb meat available for purchase.
Each neighborhood centers around a square, which includes a taverna, shops, and an area for the kids to play (because in this sea of concrete there are no yards). My square includes a fountain covered in graffiti and full of filthy water.
Oh, and the graffiti itself is fascinating. I'm particularly smitten by the "Greeklish." English is taught in all the schools, so the bilingual young people mix English and Greek not just in the same sentence, but in the same word. In this bit of graffiti, the last letter is not an "E" with more angles, it's a Greek sigma, "S". So it reads "DOMINOS," maybe the nickname of the tagger.
Because it's so brutally hot, traditional Greek culture includes the afternoon siesta. All the windows have blinds made of heavy wooden slats, and you see all the slats on the street pulled down during nap hours. In the picture below, you can see the brown slats pulled halfway down the window.
3. Now a word about cars. It appears Athenians like to drive very tiny pod-shaped cars. Their fuel efficiency is probably spectacular. In the picture, I don't think I want to know what Sensual FX is, but if you look past the advertising, you can see the size and shape of the car.
Greeks like such small cars because that's the only hope they have of finding a parking place. I've seen many gated porches on the ground floor of houses which look like very swanky parking spots. Everybody else parks on the street. Or on the sidewalk.
4. The final little detail I've notices is the painting in the classroom I'll probably be teaching in. It just seems odd to be in a Greek classroom because I think the subject is, um, Lot's daughters. Eeew.
5. My apartment has two interesting details about it. First, there's marble everywhere. I would have to be a millionaire in the States to have this much marble. There's marble on the stairs, marble on the floors, marble on the kitchen counters, there's even marble on the sidewalks! This is a country where stone is bountiful but trees are not.
Finally, what we call the "Greek key" pattern is actually called a Greek meander. Here's a picture of a real Greek key, with holes bored into it in varying depths instead of notches taken out of the side.
Hope that was good, Godiva. No word yet on what Greek keyboards look like, as you asked me to find out. All the women who administer the program type on English-letter keyboards. Let me know in the comments if there are any other details you want me to investigate.
1. I went to the supermarket for the first time today. I managed to find most of what I was looking for. Struck out on face cleanser, though, since I couldn't read the Greek bottles to know if I was buying cleanser, toner, or lotion. Despite the tight aisles, nobody said "excuse me" or "pardon me" or "sorry." I've read that Greeks sometimes think Americans are overly polite or fake for saying such things so often, but that there's a linguistic explanation: like the Romance languages, Greek has a formal and an informal version of address. If you use the formal version, there's no need to add extra polite words because the formal version is itself the polite form.
I got a huge kick out of some of the supermarket product packaging, which included a little bit of mangled English, my favorite being the "baby puder" I picked up in the pharmacy section. And I didn't notice until I got back to the apartment that the toilet paper package comes complete with a carrying strap. This is because nobody drives to the supermarket. You walk there and carry your bags back home by hand.
2. Also some sights around my apartment. The street signs are not on poles or hanging from traffic light lines.
Baby Puder!
Come to think of it, I haven't seen any traffic lights in my neighborhood. Instead, the street signs are posted on the sides of buildings. Fortunately, they are often written in both Greek and Latin letters. Continuing on the subject of signs, there is a butcher shop on my walk to the classroom building that strikes me for the poignancy with which they advertise the goat and lamb meat available for purchase.
Each neighborhood centers around a square, which includes a taverna, shops, and an area for the kids to play (because in this sea of concrete there are no yards). My square includes a fountain covered in graffiti and full of filthy water.
Oh, and the graffiti itself is fascinating. I'm particularly smitten by the "Greeklish." English is taught in all the schools, so the bilingual young people mix English and Greek not just in the same sentence, but in the same word. In this bit of graffiti, the last letter is not an "E" with more angles, it's a Greek sigma, "S". So it reads "DOMINOS," maybe the nickname of the tagger.
Because it's so brutally hot, traditional Greek culture includes the afternoon siesta. All the windows have blinds made of heavy wooden slats, and you see all the slats on the street pulled down during nap hours. In the picture below, you can see the brown slats pulled halfway down the window.
3. Now a word about cars. It appears Athenians like to drive very tiny pod-shaped cars. Their fuel efficiency is probably spectacular. In the picture, I don't think I want to know what Sensual FX is, but if you look past the advertising, you can see the size and shape of the car.
Greeks like such small cars because that's the only hope they have of finding a parking place. I've seen many gated porches on the ground floor of houses which look like very swanky parking spots. Everybody else parks on the street. Or on the sidewalk.
4. The final little detail I've notices is the painting in the classroom I'll probably be teaching in. It just seems odd to be in a Greek classroom because I think the subject is, um, Lot's daughters. Eeew.
5. My apartment has two interesting details about it. First, there's marble everywhere. I would have to be a millionaire in the States to have this much marble. There's marble on the stairs, marble on the floors, marble on the kitchen counters, there's even marble on the sidewalks! This is a country where stone is bountiful but trees are not.
Finally, what we call the "Greek key" pattern is actually called a Greek meander. Here's a picture of a real Greek key, with holes bored into it in varying depths instead of notches taken out of the side.
Hope that was good, Godiva. No word yet on what Greek keyboards look like, as you asked me to find out. All the women who administer the program type on English-letter keyboards. Let me know in the comments if there are any other details you want me to investigate.

Comments
It all sounds so wonderful....
First, thank you so much for sharing your story. It is so wonderful to share your journey with you. I can't wait to get the e-mail that the blog has been updated!! Sounds like you having a wonderful time full of new experiences and new people. I'm so glad!! Loved the picture of the cars!! How funny! I'm not sure I could actually buy meat from the butcher though. That sign is just too cute!! God bless you. Know that my love and prayers are with you!! Barbara
YES! That's exactly the stuff I meant!
Those are great! Thank you so much! To me it's the things like those that make countries fun to explore - baby 'pouder' and straps on toilet paper, not to mention marble staircases, strange keys, and no signposts! I still want to see a keyboard with Greek letters, but it's fine if that takes a while. What are public toilet facilities like (assuming there ARE any)? What times are meals typically eaten? Have you visited a farmer's market yet? I LOVE your blog! (And you picked a cool name for me, thanks!)
Re: YES! That's exactly the stuff I meant!
> What are public toilet facilities like (assuming there ARE any)?
I haven't been in a lot of these yet, but they look exactly like ours, except that the flusher is not a handle, it's a button on the top of the toilet tank, and the little bins that are used in the U.S. for female unmentionables are here used for unflushable toilet paper.
> What times are meals typically eaten?
This is a big cultural difference. Because they have the siesta in the afternoon, and because it doesn't cool off until hours after the sun goes down, Greeks don't tend to eat dinner until 9 or 10pm, and clubs don't start hopping until at least midnight. Greeks aren't big on breakfast -- coffee and a cigarrette is often breakfast, but you can get a cheese pie 'tiropita,' or a sort of hard round pretzel studded with sesame seeds 'kouloria' for breakfast at the bakery.
> Have you visited a farmer's market yet?
Yes, there is a market every Friday on the street right beside mine. You can get everything from grapes and little pears and tomatoes to fish and flowers and leather sandals. In the farmer's market, you don't haggle, but you can haggle a bit at the flea market downtown.