Modern and Ancient

Trip Start Jan 20, 2004

165

Trip End Ongoing

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Flag of Mexico Matehuala, Mexico
Monday, February 16, 2004

After our sojourn in the desert we headed back to the main highway at Monclova and set our sights south again, still in search of that elusive warmth. Gradually we started climbing into the Sierra Madre Oriental and were eventually totally enveloped in cloud over the mountain passes by Saltillo, at about 5,000 ft. From one moment to the next we emerged from the misty shroud to find ourselves on the Altiplano, with a clear straight road heading south to the state capital of San Luis Potos�. By late afternoon we came into Matehuala, a small commercial centre of 78,000, and decided it looked like a good choice for a couple of days of clean-up and re-grouping. We checked into a motel/campsite on the outskirts of town, and although the desert cacti were still growing in the back yard, we found ourselves back in a civilized and modern setting (including running water, toilets and electricity!).

As we settled down for the night, we realized we would be "benefiting" from one of the other advantages of modern society (aka NAFTA), namely the non-stop roar and grind of double semi-trailer transport trucks rushing past on the nearby highway - all night, and all day (no doubt, rushing crates of grapefruit up to Canada!)

A Touch of Class

. Even with our handy earplugs, the contrast to the quiet of the desert (and to the Old Almonte Road, come to that) was quite a shock.

Never mind, the city did offer other advantages, and we were able to stock up on groceries (including a bag of the sweetest oranges, offered by numerous street vendors), find an Internet Caf� to touch base with the rest of the world, and get some clothes washed out. It was also time to get the oil and filter changed on the van, and a few minor adjustments by the local VW dealer, as well as a car wash to get rid of the inch of sand/salt mixture remaining from the desert trails. Oh yes, we also found a local restaurant for our Valentine Day's dinner, adjacent to the tree-covered central plaza in the centre of town. Just the place to watch life go by and be serenaded by thousands of grackles filling the trees as the sun went down. Nice to be eating out - without sand in every mouthful - we ate our way through a complete Mexican menu, including the mashed green chili peppers (hoping that nobody noticed the puffs of steam and rivulets of perspiration!).

Sunday called for a gentle excursion, so where better than to head off into the hills again. Imagine being transported back in time two or three centuries, to visit a silver mining town high in the mountains of Nueva Espana. However, no time machines here, so getting there involved 30 km of potholed road climbing up from the altiplano, followed by 20 km of bone-rattling, laid-stone ancient highway (one of the world's longest cobblestone streets) higher and higher into the mountains. The final leg, another 2.3 km through the Ogarrio tunnel - a rough-hewn one-lane tunnel seemingly only a few inches higher than the van - blasted through the mountain rock to provide access to the mines

It's a Donkey's Life

. Finally, we arrived at our destination at over 8,500 ft: a cobblestone square overlooking the ancient town of Real de Catorce, with all the sights, sounds and smells of a bustling medieval town.

Some say that the name Real de Catorce (literally "Royal of 14") refers to 14 Spanish soldiers killed here by indigenous resisters in about 1700. On the other hand, maybe it's just an abbreviated form of the original name - Villa Real de Minas de Nuestra Se�ora de la Limpia Concepci�n de Guadalupe de los �lamos de Catorce! The town was founded around 1750, and is dominated by the Parroquia - described as a charmingly timeworn parish church - but in reality a rather grand and imposing cathedral. In October each year it still attracts many thousands of pilgrims paying homage to the miraculous image of St. Francis of Assisi that has provided assistance to believers in a wide variety of difficult situations.

By the late 1800s, Real de Catorce was a good-sized town, and was producing several million dollars worth of silver a year. However, within just three decades it was apparently transformed into a ghost town, either due to the problems of the Mexican Revolution years, or more probably due to the slump in world silver prices. Up until a few years ago only a handful of people were left, eking out an existence from old mine workings or from providing services to visiting pilgrims

La Parroquia

. Today however, the town has a new lease on life, as wealthy Mexicans and gringos have discovered it and have started restoring the crumbling stone buildings, setting them up as tourist hotels, shops and restaurants. Artisans, artists and filmmakers are also beginning to settle here, and we could easily see why they would choose this town in its high valley with panoramic views of the westward plains.

We spent the better part of a day, exploring the ancient streets, the ruins, the tasteful renovations and restorations, and the surrounding hills, just soaking up the atmosphere - and the brilliant, high altitude sunshine. At the end of the day we once again descended into modern civilization, contemplating the joys of a simpler, quieter lifestyle of days gone by.