Granada and Gone!
Trip Start
Dec 02, 2008
1
23
39
Trip End
Feb 07, 2009
Managua,
Nicaragua
Monday, January 12, 2009
Over the holidays we watched as the world celebrated the coming of the new year. We also watched as Latin America celebrated 50 year anniversary of the Cuban Revolution and 30 year anniversary of the Nicaraguan revolution. Television and newspapers were filled with comments from Daniel Ortega and Hugo Chavez regarding the benefits of Socialismo, how the revolution was born in the Sierra Maestra Mountains of Southern Cuba, etc, etc.
For me, the benefits are difficult to see, but, then again, I was not here under the repressive dictatorial regimes of the three Somoza's or Batista. These people were.
While traveling, I have made a point to try and talk to people in the restaurants, hotels, taxis, and streets about their perception of events past and present. There is clearly an opposition to the FSLN [Sandinista Liberation Front of Nicaragua] here. Daniel Ortega managed to win his first democratic election here due to the fact that the liberal party [PLC and ALN] here split into two parties and the FSLN won.
Two weeks before we flew down here, there were violent demonstrations in the streets of Managua. These were liberals protesting the recent election of Alexis Arguello, former welterweight boxing champion, as mayor of the capital city, Managua.
Plaza building in Granada
Two days ago, we watched on television as violent street protests erupted in the streets of Nindiri'. This time it was the FSLN protesting the election of a liberal to the mayoral seat in Nindiri', which is located between Managua and Masaya. They claimed election fraud. This march was quite violent, with mostly young , masked protesters, using slingshots, throwing rocks. I was surprised that a few had home made hand/held mortars [morteros]. The aimed their weapons at the black suited, helmeted, armed and armored National Police Force, also representing the FSLN government. The police held body length plexiglass shields to deflect the projectiles. I felt the police were quite restrained in their response. Many women and citizens came into the melee urging both sides to calm down. The news cast was 100% news footage without commentary.
The hand-held mortars were made from thick 3 inch pipe. One end was welded shut. The barrel was about 2 .5 feet long. There were handles welded to the midpoint at a 45 degree angle. The protesters would first load a packet of gunpowder wrapped in aluminum foil with a long fuse into the chamber. [ remember that New Years Eve has held recently, and there was lots of gunpowder around] The powder packet was about the size of a small lemon. The fuse was very long. After the powder was loaded they would insert some type of projectile [Pre cast cement? Stones?] . They would then stand, point their small bazooka at the police, and another protester would light the fuse.
Old door in Granada
Then they would stand there and wait. and wait....Sometime it wouldn't go off. Other times they would be shot by the police while waiting for their fuse to burn. I don't think any were killed, but several were shot. Therefore I surmise that the police may have been using ribber bullets. The whole event was a sort of flash back to the Revolution. FSLN flags, masked youth against the establishment. It was "Back to the Barricades!] If it weren't so real, it reminded me somewhat of our Revolutionary and Civil War reenactments, except that there was plenty of blood in the street. I have included a few photos from the next days newspapers La Prensa and El Nuevo Dario, both from 1.12.09.
By and large the police presence here in the country has been minimal. Muy Tranquillo, easy going, not heavy handed at all. We have seen virtually no sign of the Army, except for a few old helicopters at the international Airport in Managua.[Possibly old Soviet choppers]
All the banks have 24 hours, seven day a week armed security. The guards there all carry short 12 Ga pump shotguns, with pistol grips handles.I don't think they get many bank robberies down here. When armored vehicles pick up and deliver cash to businesses and banks, it is done in a military fashion. The movement is fast and organized. The cash is transfer through a line of armed guards, on hand-trucks, on the run. No time to waste!
I thought about it, but decided not to take a photo...
An interesting note about the election of Daniel Ortega.
Daniel and Hugo son Amigos
As I understand it, in the peace accords, and in the Constitution, it specifically names him as being able to hold office for one term only. Previous and future Presidents will be able to hold more than one. Since he has been elected, he is attempting to reverse his position on the accords he agreed to years ago, which brought peace to this divided country. Nicaraguans fought long and hard in the mountains and throughout this country to overthrow a corrupt and dictatorial government. Everyone lost someone here, during the struggle. They stood up with stones ans farm tools, glass bottles full of gasoline, and .22 rifles, at first, against a well equipped national guard. It is interesting now, standing on the sidelines, to see if they can keep their Democracy they fought so hard to win, in this part of the world so accustomed to strongman rule, dictators con Manos Dura [Tough hands] .
We have moved through Nicaragua faster than we expected. As I said earlier, "if it is good, stay, If not move on"
We have moved and moved. covered much of the north central and south and west of the country. We did not visit the Caribbean coast. Parts have been great , others less inspiring. My early experience was colored negatively by the loss of my camera.
One thing I do want to mention. While I understand that Ortega has many more pressing issues o his agenda, such as education, water, energy, jobs, and heath care. He also needs to develop a systematic, National program to reduce the presence of waste [specifically, plastic waste] on their streets, highways, streams and rivers.
La Prensa pic of demonstration
Many Nicaraguans work hard every day cleaning the streets in front of their businesses and homes. However, every day, millions of people throw non degradable plastic bottle and thin plastic bags out of their homes, their cars, and buses. It is unbelievable to me how little regard they have for the appearance of their country. The highways have glistening ribbons of plastic like confetti all along the route. Occasional, but routine piles of illegal dumps dot the thoroughfare like so many mile posts. Their "system" is to clean the city street periodically, which helps in towns. There were a few trash bins seen in Masaya, which were funded by Japan, but were barely used. San Juan del Sur was an exception, possibly due to the large presence of foreign tourists. They had trash cans and they were serviced. The system worked well there. The system does not work in the remainder of the country, that I can tell. This lack of respect for their country , and it's appearance, has definitely damaged my impressions here. [Remember, that I ended my career, picking up trash all over Seattle!] Maybe Charlie Scott and I should team up and set them straight! In Panama , this was not a problem. Here they need to start with a notional campaign to educate, and change attitudes. There are so many film plastic bags here, blowing into the trees and bushes, that Daniel Ortega should declare them the National Flower! They simply do not seem to notice or care about the blight growing steadily around them. They need to change or they will be swimming in it in a few more years.
One last note regarding Taxis. A recent article in La Prensa stated that there were 742 assaults in taxis in the year 2008 according to the National Police. That is just about 63 a month! or 2 a day. Initially, I thought that, like in the US, the victims were the taxi drivers. On the contrary, the victims here are almost routinely the passengers. The crime is robbery. Once on board, the taxi driver would stop and pick up another passenger, the robber, who would then rob the passenger and occasionally the driver. The driver and robber were often working together.
People here try to improve their odds, by carrying a list of trusted drivers telephone numbers, then calling them, and hiring the cab and the driver for a period of time. Solo, no company on-board.
We have decided not to spend an additional three weeks here. We are going to "Toss the salad", and make a move. We hired a tourist cab company for the ride from Granada to the Agusto Sandino International Airport in Managua. We rode in a SUV, AC, doors all worked, one driver from Columbia who owned the business, called Paxeos. It cost $10 each more, but was worth it. We are on the move. Stay tuned!
Comments
Ugh!
Educational but not so pretty. Is the air dirty or is the smog just the airplane windows. Maybe it'll take some kind of plague to change their garbage habits. Hopefully your next posting will be more enchanting! Keep'em coming.
Don and Janis