Going back to CA (Central America that is)

Trip Start Dec 02, 2008
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Trip End Feb 07, 2009


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Flag of United States  , Washington,
Saturday, November 29, 2008

Barbie has done it again. She is the master of the frequent flyer program. This time she has managed to obtain two round trip tickets (Seattle-Houston - Panama City/ Return Managua, Nicaragua - Houston- Seattle) for $60.00 each! She used our One Pass and we fly on Continental Airlines. We bought a couple of internal flights in Panama as well. I think we obtained a promotional credit card with mileage attached, used it once, then canceled and added the mileage to a flight we took a year ago. And Viola! That lady is good at this, her favorite game!  

We recently counted up the number of trips we have made to Central American countries over the years - and the number was 8. Most of our trips were to Belize, Guatemala, and Costa Rica, and the Mexican State of Chiapas (Well Chiapas, looks like Guatemala aka Central America to me) . We also made single trips to Honduras and Panama Lonely Planet Guides
Lonely Planet Guides
. Some trips were quite adventurous. I have included a couple of old photos here.

I'll digress here, and tell a story of an early adventure. This is snapshot of the old Milwakee Road Railroad Tressle in Monroe, WA. When I was 15 or 16, I jumped off the roof of this very, very, very,  high object. So did a few of the recipients of this email. Guys, I'll bet you never thought you'd see this tressle again. Back then, it was kind of a rite of passage. It was kind of like base jumping without a parachute. It was over 70 feet high, and you indeed reached terminal velocity by the time you made impact with the very cold Skykomish River. The first time, I remember, after much thoughtful planning, that as my right foot left the surface of the roof, and I stepped into space, with enough forward motion to clear the telegraph wires some 40 feet below, (still some 30 feet above the water), one thought entred into my mind.

I had forgotten to wear an atheltic supporter!
 

The next suprise was the impact. My knees came up and kicked me in the jaw! I could have easily chopped off my tongue. It took me a week or two, but I eventually did it again and again, and improved each time. I really did have good form. I did it five times, all told. Don't ask me why. Peer pressure and the adreneline, I guess.Years later, while in college, I returned and climbed up the ladder and on up through the holes which we had we kicked in the roof, and looked over the abyss one more time. I thought "You must have been out of your mind!"

The next  two shots are of my beloved Klepper Folboat Monroe's Old Milwakee Railroad Tressle
Monroe's Old Milwakee Railroad Tressle
. The first shows it in full sail, during a two week trip to Exuma Cays in the Bahamas. The second is a picture from a week long kayak trip off the coast of Belize along the great reef. These boats fold up and travel like baggage. We used our Klepper to paddle a series of islets and mangroves off the coast of Belize. After our paddle tour, we explored the ruins of Tikal in Guatemala.

The next photo was taken on another trip. I led a group of friends on an 8 day private float trip down the Usumacinta River, known as the river of the Sacred Monkey. It runs north through the Peten rain forest of Guatemala. I acted as trip leader/guide, and since none of us had been there before, you get a sense of how crazy my pals were. We floated north along this giant rain forest river for 8 days along the Mexican- Guatemala border. We would chop our way into the jungle each night with machetes, or stay in villages as there was no beach. The river was in flood. We were looking for the Lost City of Yachitlan. I used to joke with my pals, as we floated down this river, while looking at a satellite photo. I told them that, as the guide, I was "Lost", so I knew we must be close. 

It was on the seventh day on the river, miles and miles into the road-less jungle, that we were startled to see three armed resistance fighters as they came into our camp Here is the Klepper in full sail in Bahamas.
Here is the Klepper in full sail in Bahamas.
.

Question: What do you say to three armed guerrillas when the come into your camp?

" Bienvienidos!" Of course!

They turned out to be indigenous Mayan peasants trying to survive the military repression, which had taken a toll of over 200,000 Indian lives in the 1980s.. They were a part of a "freedom train" moving women and children north, out of harm's way,  to the safety of the Mexican border.  We invited them to dinner, and as they had lived years in the jungle, and we had a chocolate cake in the dutch oven,  they agreed. Sitting there in the jungle and talking to these Indian men, and hearing their stories of massacres, and genocide,  was like talking to Sitting Bull. Unforgettable.

As we returned to Central America, again and again, to various parts of this troubled part of the world, we were always impressed with the people, their faith, and their strength and love of family.  We were also aware of the amount of energy and money that the US government had poured into military aid which often supported repressive regimes, and exploited the natives Tom And Barb 6 miles off shore- Belize
Tom And Barb 6 miles off shore- Belize
. This same history has played out over the entire region from Panama to Mexico over many years. This pattern has occured for hundreds of years. Every kid in Central America knows who William Walker was. Few Americans do. Now we will be going to the country that he had declared himself President of, so many years ago. Nicaragua.  

It is more peaceful now in Guatemala (albeit with the army's immunity) and the death squad activity has  diminished. On this trip, we plan to start in Panama and visit Boquette and Contadora Island for two weeks, then fly north to Managua, Nicaragua. We plan to visit the colonial cities of Leon, and Granada, the massive Lake Nicaragua with it's twin Volcanoes and fresh water sharks, the Southern and Northwestern coasts, and the mountainous north central highlands, home of  Sandino and Fonseca, and location of much of the fighting during the Contra wars.  We are looking forward to birding, good coffee, and warm weather, and meeting new friends. It is Navel Orange season there now.  We have no idea where we will spend Christmas, but we plan to attend a church service, if at all possible.

We leave in three days, carrying our passports, a camera, and three small bags for 9 weeks in the sun and rain. I have sprayed my clothes with bug repellent, and charged my batteries Dinner Guests on Usumacinta River
Dinner Guests on Usumacinta River
. We have all our shots and meds.  I have packed the sunglasses and the suncream.  Barbie, thankfully has handled all the connections and disconnections  here. We are "Good to Go".

So, We will send a link from time to time to let you know what we are up to, and where we are. I hope you will enjoy following our progress. This time of year, the Washington weather makes us yearn for those warm Central American breezes again. We are ready for some hammock time. I can almost smell the oranges.
 
I wish you all a happy and healthy holiday season.

My next post will be from Panama.

Tomas y Barbara  
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Comments

steve_julie
steve_julie on Nov 29, 2008 at 11:24PM

Bon Voyage!
Just read your first entry and excited for you both! I'll be reading each entry to Steve, trying to live vicariously through you for the next several weeks. Remember, the phrase Lo Siento. It's indispensable!

thomasgillam
thomasgillam on Nov 30, 2008 at 01:43AM

Re: Bon Voyage!
Gracias Julie and Steve. Yo Conosco. Lo Siento, por todo. Glad you two will be along for the ride! Tomas

greerberge
greerberge on Nov 30, 2008 at 08:22AM

Have a great time!!!
We look forward to hearing about your adventures!
D & K

j.skids
j.skids on Dec 1, 2008 at 01:59PM

Happy Trails
Hope you have a safe trip. Happy Holidays and all the best to you.
Tami @ Amigos

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