Taksim, Tukish fare, and the 4am plane to Basel

Trip Start Apr 12, 2006

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Trip End Ongoing

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Flag of Turkey Istanbul, Turkey
Thursday, June 15, 2006

After the long day yesterday, today's agenda definately called for something a little more low key. Got up, had the customary Turkish brekky with wrinkly olives, then sat downstairs and checked out the CNN news for a bit. As luck would have it a bomb went off about 2km from where i was, just around the corner near Sultanahment. I dont think anyone was hurt, but yeah...it got a few people in the hostel thinking. Nonetheless, no bomb was deterring me from venturing outside the tourism cocoon that is Sultanahmet, it was my one final day left in Istanbul, and Turkey for that matter, and i wanted to see as much as possible before i ventured onwards ho.

Caught up with my crazy El Salvadorian friend Carol in the morning and head downtown with her, talking travel jive walking along the mighty Bosphorus river under the soothing, balmy heat of the Istanbul sun, past random fisherman napping and catching their trade

Cheap feast

. Coming across the main bridge across to the other side fo the Bosphorus, i stopped off and bought a fresh fish sandwhich from a fish mechant by the river, for the considerably cheap sum of 1 turkish lira. We head across the bridge to the other side, past a plethora of fisherman lining both sides of the bridge the whole way across. Two school girls in relatively short skirts walked in front of us, and you should have seen the blatant ogling they received from the hoard of fisherman. I dont think Turks have ever heard of the word 'discreet', proof that even in modernised parts of the country, women dolled up are still looked upon as pieces of meat.

We ventured an ambitious trek all the way from Sultanahmet to Taksim Square some kilometres away, through the hardware store end of town, where Turkish me ambled around, building things, trading, discussing, inhaling down fags. Hit the main drag of Taksim in the early arvo, an overcast day yet again in Istanbul. We were amazed to find just how cheap things were over in this neck of the woods. In Sultanahment, prices is unbelievably inflated compared to places where everyday Turks roam, and we took full advantage of this by tucking into a mammoth Turkish meal at an alleyway restaurant. Lamb shish, pide, salads and turkish tea, all for about 5 bucks Australian. Man, it was some of the nicest food i've ever inhaled, and i regretted that i hadn't come through to this part of town earlier

Fish sandwhich

. Feeling like we'd now seen a more significant and truer side of Istanbul, we strolled home via a cherry merchant and hook up a bag of the nicest, juiciest cherries on earth, before climbing up to the top of the Byzantinian era 'Galata Tower', a 61 story cylindrical bulding with sensational 360 degree views of the Istanbul sprawl. It was a breakthtaking view of the city.

Istanbul really exemplifies the whole 'East meets West' characteristic of Modern Turkey. Whilst everyone gets around in the latest designer clothes, and mod cons on par with any other European city, lavish mosques vie for prominence in the city skyline and calls to prayer bellow out across the city districts just as they might in the far east. It is this clash of cultures, this contradiction that gives Istanbul its unique richness and vibe, and im glad i was able to see the 'real' Bul, and not just the sheltered confines of the tourist district.

Chilled at the Bahaus for a little while, then went out with Pascual Bourgoise and another yank by the name of Jason. Had a few beers, some Turkish pide, and watched the world cup on tele. With just a few hours left before my shuttle bus to the airport and 4am flight out of Istanbul, i thought i'd treat myself to a little turkish relaxation, and go and have a Turkish Hammam

The Bul

. The concept of getting rubbed down and cleansed by a hairy Turk really didn't sound quite as gay from the outset, but i can assure you it wasn't the most comfortable of experiences i've ever endured. I sat in a steam room for a good 40 minutes, before some beefy bloke came and cleansed me good, cracking my back a few times and bending a few joints. A Turkish Hammam is a trademark part of Turkish culture, and im sure if i went during the day, without knowing that i had a flight in a matter of hours, then i would have been a little more receptive to the concpet of relaxation. That, and if a woman instead of a hairy, fat Turkish bloke was in charge of the cleansing. So i dunno, im glad i was able to tick off another cornerstone experience off my 'things to do in Turkey list', but i doubt i'll feel the need to go back to one anytime soon.

Caught a shuttle bus to Sabiha Gocken airport at 12.20am with a nutbar of a driver, and arrived at the airport an hour later. Encountered some very strict airport customs right at the entrance, and after declaring i had no weapons or flammable goods i was allowed to enter. Airport security seems to have been stepped up a little since the Ataturk main international airport was set ablaze by the militant Kurdish PKK ground some days before i arrived in Selcuk. Chilled at the 'port, until my yank mates Ryan and Catie from the blue cruise once again joined me to hook up and travel together on a new adventure. We sunk some exhorbitantly charged beers, killed some time, and waited until our 4am flight to Switzerland...