Day 1 - 5 of Overland; Cape Town to Swakopmund
Trip Start
Mar 30, 2008
1
126
144
Trip End
Mar 31, 2009
Swakopmund,
Namibia
Thursday, January 29, 2009
The morning began early as we wanted to get over to the meeting place and secure reasonable seats on the truck-bus for our overland tour. We will be spending a lot of time on board as we head to Namibia. We all managed to get packed up in good time and were the first to arrive which allowed us to reserve seats around a table for four of us with Steve just across the walkway. This done we were then picked up by a minibus to start our first tour.
District 6 has a checkered history. It used to be a very multiracial region until in the 1960s the apartheid regime forcibly removed many residents and placed them in outlying areas according to their race or skin colour, bulldozing their houses as they left. We were dropped at the living museum to see some of how this was done and more importantly how it affected those who were forcibly removed as well as the white people who were allowed to stay. It's quite unbelievable that it happened at all, but fortunately pressure from the rest of the world along with demonstrations saw the end of apartheid in 1994
what chaos
. However still now most residents are waiting to have their houses rebuilt so that they can return.A 10km or so drive took us next to the first of two townships we were to visit. In Lange we were taken on a guided walking tour of the township. It was very interesting and surprisingly despite the very basic living conditions none of us were moved to feel pity for the occupants. They were happy and many were beginning to show signs of social class migration. Unemployment is high, but those who are able to find work can afford cars and a reasonable life with their children going to school. There is still a begging culture unfortunately with some of the older girls who were following us despite a clear message from the tour operators that no money should or would be given to them. The younger ones however were great fun and full of life. Before we left we were honoured with a bucket full of township beer, made from fermented sago with maize. Smells like horse feed, tastes like horse *h$t!
In Guguletu we began with a trip to the Sangoram or witch doctor. His dark and dingy shop was covered with animal parts hanging from the ceiling and jars full of herbs to cure all manner of ailments. We were told that it is relatively inexpensive to cure common physical problems but much more expensive to buy spiritual treatment. The Sangoram, who is called to duty by the spirits of his grandfather, learns all he knows about general practice African style through his dreaming rather than any formal training! Afterwards we were taken to a Township restaurant and treated to braai'ed pork and spicy salsa with soft white bread, truly African and delicious.
These trips over we were all given some time for last minute shopping at the V&A before heading off
packing for the tour
. Our first stop was in vain, as at Table View a thick blanket of convection fog blown in from the sea prevented even a glimpse of Table Mountain. So we continued and arrived at a wine farm called The Highlanders at around 6pm. Leticia gave us a quick lesson in putting up the dome shaped canvass frame tents and we set up camp. Our first surprise was a wine tasting session with very generous amounts for all. Sparky and his wife gave Clare and I some valuable tips for climbing Mt Kilimanjaro, something we hope to achieve at the end of the trip, and we all sat down for a fine braai before early bed.Sunday 25th January - Day 2 - Fiddlers Creek, swimming Orange River
Our first night camping went OK and we were all surprised how quickly we were able to dismantle the tents and pack away the camp. Leaving on time was a good thing as it enamored Leticia to us enough for her to make promises of reward treats for being good campers if it continued! We headed for the Namibian Border stopping on route at a remote town called Springbok, a base for copper mining. Life on the truck is working out well despite the insistence that all 24 of us must listen to one persons ipod collection, something I consider to be rather impolite. The scenery however is constantly changing, but always spectacular.
We arrived at Fiddlers Creek at a reasonable time in the afternoon around 4pm. This allowed us to set up camp early and then enjoy a swim in The Orange River
just before we left in our truck
. Orange was a term loosely used to describe it's colour, brown would have been more apt. Still once everyone's courage was up, having seen a few take the lead, the whole group eventually was convinced of the absence of crocodilia and snakes and took the refreshing plunge.As this is a participation tour there is a strict rota system of chores that need completing on a daily basis. Steve was fortunate enough to make the grade for the 'Packing Team'. They are responsible for unpacking and repacking 'Tati', our truck. An often arduous task, but one that relieves them of all other tasks. I however and the rest of us were not selected and take it in turns to do cooking, washing or cleaning. This evening was my turn to do the cooking which involved helping Leticia with the preparation so that she could cook up a superb spaghetti bolognese which we all sat down to enjoy.
For the remainder of the evening we had a few beers in the bar looking across the Border , The Orange River and into Namibia.
Monday 26th January - Day 3 - Fish River Canyon, cheese and biscuits for sunset over the canyon.
Today the efficiency in dismantling camp continued and after 20 minutes driving we were at the Namibian Border. The crossing was smooth and took no more than 45 minutes for 24 of us to leave South Africa and be stamped into Namibia. The road continued for a while before turning to unsealed road. However even this was not as heavily corrugated as much of the Australian unsealed road network and progress was good
local beer in the township - tastes awful!
. This allowed for an early arrival in the next campsite in time for a late lunch and an afternoon relaxing by the pool for all apart from the cooking team. They had to prepare the evening meal early as we were taking this to eat at the canyon. Fortunately none of us were in this team so the slightly green pool was where we headed.When the meal had been prepared we packed up and set off to Fish River Canyon. Ben dropped us off at a viewpoint and we walked along the canyon edge to meet Tati. The views of the oldest canyon in the world were awe inspiring. So difficult to believe it used to be a shallow sea that has since been carved into a canyon by the action of glacial rivers which have now long since receded. At it's widest it is 24km wide, it runs for 110km and is 1km deep. The largest of course is the Grand Canyon, but this is equally amazing and holds the record for the worlds oldest canyon. When we meet up with Tatti, Ben and Leticia we were rewarded with cheese and biscuits as we watched the sunset behind the canyon before chicken and bacon macaroni for dinner.
Tuesday 27th January - SesRiem, via Bethanie, Blow out, Cheetah & Leopard orphanage
Today was mainly a long drive to Ses Riem, we covered around 600km during the day. However there were still a few highlights to report. We were woken up at 5am, this of course was not a highlight for most people, and were on the road at 6.30am. After lunchtime we arrived at Bethanie, the oldest town in Namibia
local witch doctor
. This was a really small old town and Elizabeth got talking to an old lady there who she swapped addresses with.On the road again and after not very long there was an almighty bang followed by the rapid flogging that could only mean one thing. We had suffered our first tyre blowout caused by the stony unsealed roads, probably due to a large rock we had driven over earlier. Ben immediately set about replacing the wheel with one of the two spares we carried on the back of the truck. Everyone was keen to help especially the boys and Steve and Mat ( a New Zealand farmer) took the lead and bulk of the work. With this kind of team work we were back on the road in under 30 minutes, not bad at all considering this was a huge truck wheel and the most inaccessible (rear offside inner wheel).
Due to keeping the lost time down to a minimum we arrived at a surprise location early enough to be allowed in and shown around. The Cheetah and Leopard park was run by a farmer who was unhappy to see the leopards who were taking stock shot or displaced. To prevent this happening he used some of his land to home them. When we visited he had two full grown Cheetah and a fully grown Leopard called Lisa. We began by going into the two Cheetah's enclosure and were able to get close to view them. Unfortunately we were not able to get very close to these as they were brought to the park when they were around 3 years old and so could not be fully tamed.
Lisa the Leopard was even less accommodating she has been at the park for a long time, but has been getting gradually more aggressive
with the folks
. We were not able to go into her enclosure, but got some great shots of her showing off her cat like paws and hissing her discontent at our presence. Another enclosure allowed us a close up look at the caracals, a male and female couple.The highlight though was left until last of course. We were allowed access to a group of three juvenile Cheetahs. There were fully tame and appeared to really enjoy the human interaction. All of us were able to stroke the cats (who incidentally have more similarities to dogs include claws that cannot be retracted). Clare and I got a special licking too, Clare on her legs and me all over my arms. They must have been after the salts that we were all loosing at all too hight a rate in this hot dry desert weather.
Without doubt for many of us on the tour this was a moment to be cherished for ever. In the evening we stopped at SesRiem campsite, where we struggled with the blocked toilets and showers, but had good food and OK rest.
Wednesday 28th January - Naukluft Desert Park, via Dune 45, Desert Walk, Tropic of Capricorn
We had to start especially early to make it to the top of Dune45 in time for the sunrise. This meant getting 24 tourists up at 4 am! And leaving our camp at 5.15 am, not for those who enjoyed their beds! Unfortunately Elizabeth had had a pretty poor night, waking up with a nasty headache and painful stomach. As she had not been drinking like most of the tour participants we suspected acclimatisation and dehydration to be the cause
learnign to put our tents!
. We administered 'Dioralyte' to start replacing some of the valuable salts that had been lost, but it was clear that a 130m summit attempt on Dune45 would not be a wise idea.Leticia had told us how important it was to leave on time as being first at the dune allowed us to summit first and take the best spots to view the sunrise. So you can imagine how disappointed we were when, after leaving at 5.12 am (three minutes ahead), we could see the rear lights of an 'Intrepid' overland truck ahead of us. Leticia assured us yesterday that she had never lost this race to the base of Dune45. It was clear that she wasn't going to start now! She and Ben must come up with a plan in the front cab where they were sitting together as Ben had his pedal to the metal. After a short pursuit the Intrepid truck had to admit defeat and pull over to allow 'Tati' past. The roar of approval in the back of the truck was deafening.
After arriving at the dune Leticia gave the command, 'Go!' and we all legged it across the gravel to the base of the dune. It was a staggering climb that took us all by surprise. I was coughing and spluttering all the way up and it felt like my heart was in my mouth. Clare and I made it to the top with the first wave and awaited the others. Steve was not long behind us and Clare I were impressed with his climb. Margaret, mum's sister (almost literally from some angles), had stopped a little lower down with Tina for a rest.
now us trying
We watched a beautiful sunrise and not long after found Tina and Margaret only a few metres lower down.After photos and videos I ran back down the dune to check on mothers recovery. The salt replacement hadn't started to work and she looked still pale and felt rubbish. So we tried another sachet and within ten minutes or so her colour returned, she was thankfully well on the road to recovery now.
The next activity on the itinerary was the 'Desert Walk'. Unfortunately mum and Tina would have to miss this as the sun would be strong as we returned and the 1.5 km walk wouldn't help. Something which I am sure they would be disappointed about as they waved the rest of us on the back of a Ute. We soon arrived at the start of the walk and our guide started explain in a very animated way about the area. Frans of 'Sossus On Foot' tours (sossusft@mweb.com.na, +264 63 293217) had a great way of explaining the history of the formation of the desert here.
It was formed when a river running to the sea was first stopped by a sand dune. The sand coming from both the coast and the Kalahari Desert. The dunes do not move as in some deserts but they do grow in both height and length. This process causes new areas of dead desert each year and eventually the whole landscape will be killed by the processes involved here.
As well as talking about the area Frans caught two local animals: a lizard and Head Stand Beetle and showed us the trap door of a spider
we're experts not sure about the others!
. I learned how to use the shadow cast by your hand when catching the lizard. He also talked to us about how Ostrich eggs can be used to preserve water for up to eight months, used and then refilled.Our next stop was at a bush camp, but on the way we made three stops. The first stop was at Sas Riem canyon, meaning 'six thongs' as it took six lengths of thong to lower a bucket to the base to get water. The second was at the smallest town in Namibia, Solitaire, famous for it's apple pie,using 500kg of apples each week. Of course we all had to try this and it was delicious. The final stop was at the moon landscape. We also had a quick stop at the Tropic of Capricorn and Clare got a photo with the 'Long Way Down' sticker on the back of the sign.
Our camp this evening was at a remote site in the Naukluft Desert. It was around a huge rock and in the evening there was virtually no moon, which set early too. This meant that we were treated to the most spectacular night sky. We had our start chart from the planetarium and identified many southern hemisphere constellations. The Milky Way was clearly visible and we could also spot the satellites tracking across the sky.
Thursday 29th January - Swakopmund, via Lie in!, Walvis Bay Flamingos
Finally the pace slowed today and we were afforded a lie in until 7am, we left at 8. The group had elected to arrive early in Swakopmund to arrange activities. We stopped on route at Wolvis Bay to see the huge flock of Flamingos and struggled to grab a photo as 24 people getting of a truck seemed to disturb them and they move away!
We arrived in Swakopmund just before lunch and settled back into life with toilets, showers and real beds!
Comments
Wow
What a fantastic trip.
Sorry to hear Elizabeth suffered, but hope she is now fully recovered.
What fantastic stories you wil lall have to tell on your return.
Take care,
LOL xxx