I´m TNT I´m dynamite

Trip Start Jun 15, 2007
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Trip End Dec 06, 2008


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Flag of Bolivia  ,
Friday, August 10, 2007

All the buses to Potosí looked as shabby as the next so realistically it didnīt matter which company we took as it was gona be a crappy journey either way. We bought our 3.50 euro tickets for the 5 to 6 hour journey with Quijarro. The following morning they were trying to flog them off at 3 euro, I feel so ripped off! There was total and utter confusion with seating arrangements before departure but luckily myself and ray were early so no old biddies or the likes could have sat in our designated seat which would have been torture to try and sort out as them biddies (and old fellas too I suppose) can be right stubborn.  Eventually things got sorted, we were half an hour late already and some grumpies were shouting "vamous" = letīs go! People were standing in the isle all the way and one chappie had a green parrott with him. Some other fella had a scrawny chicken under his jacket too. There was a hummmm of b.o. so I was grateful that I was beside a window that opened. There were a few other gringoīs on the bus which is always a good comfort because you think to yourself at least weīre not in this mess alone. To be honest I had braced myself for a horrific ordeal alltogether so much so that I was even thinking about a nappy alter hearing a guyīs description of the voyage in which his sphincter nearly swallowed him because he got such a rattling and  the roads were so treacherous. (Not sure how thatīd work but never the less it sounds impressive). ....Maybe in the rainy season, when the traction is not the best around the sharp bends and the crumbling edges of the roads give way to steep drops, it might have been more daunting. A vein of the good stuff
A vein of the good stuff
 Or maybe because I was expecting the worst, it seemed pretty placid. Fair enough there were times that the tin can rattled so much that you couldnīt hear yourself think, but it was manageable. The closest parallel would be the ring of kerry made of dirt and gravel tracks and no walls on the outer side of the road where thereīs a steep drop.
Indigenous people especially the women are so distinctive. There all about 5 foot tall at the most and from the bottom up they wear sandals or shoes, thick tights or stockings to above their knees, a pleated skirt that fans out from the waist, a woolly jumper, cardigan and an apron with pockets. They have a shawl wrapped around their shoulders if itīs cold and always a bowl hat (laurel and hardy style)! They have long jet black platted hair in two ponytails at the back. Their skin is incredibly dark and full of deep wrinkles and weather-beaten. They could all pass as over 100 years old but realistically are probably less than half this. They carry everything including their babies on their backs in shawls. Itīs gas they put the kids into the shawl, grab the ends and swing the bundle through the air and onto their backs, tie a know in the front and off they trot.
 
The reason we came to Potosí was to see the silver mines. Potosí was once the biggest city in South America because of them. Itīs also the highest city in the world which is interesting, 4100m. The place has a tragic history of slavery and injustice all connected with the mines and itīs pretty much still happening except for the slavery. beeeeeeep
beeeeeeep
 The conditions in which the guys work are shocking and the system of pay is totally not fair. You can do tours of the mines everyday for 8 euroīs or less. We did the tour through the hostel with Crus del sur. (the hostel is la casona, nice and also cheap) Thereīs probable better companies to do the tours. The tour consists of a trip to the miners market where you buy gifts for the miners. This is good wait for it . you can buy coca leaves, water, 96% alcohol which they drink straight, sticks of dynamite with accompanying fertiliser, fuse and detonator, a herbal mix of cigarettes, gloves and the general PPE. Itīs all dirt cheap too. Alter youīve bought gifts you go to the top of a hill and the lads show you how to set up the explosives and give a demonstration. I volunteered my stick of dynamite, fertiliser, fuse and detonator for the cause of experiment. Got the explosion on video too, wicked! It meant I had nothing to give the miners but a pair of gloves. We went to the mines and put on the helmets and lights etc. Went in the little cave entrance and honestly I nearly turned around after 5 meters. Itīs a shock to say the least, really scary at the start. One girl bottled and bolted for the door. I wouldnīt blame her. Managed to muster up the courage to continue on and thankfully the area opened up a bit more inside. Believe me when I say itīs dangerous because it is but it still is a must. While we were inside we went   down a couple of levels, the air was stale but not too bad and it wasnīt too hot either. Don`t forget your shovel
Don`t forget your shovel
 Some of the mines can be really claustrophobic and youīd be gasping for air. A couple of dynamite explosions were set off in the mine we were in while we were in it. It gives you the shivers. The sound and smell of the explosion is crazy. We met a few of the workers one guy who had been working there for 25 years which is a long long time. Usually the miners survive only 15 years or so in the business because it`s so so dangerous and the fumes and chemicals are lethal. They start when they are as young as 12 or 13 and try to work their way up to becoming owners of a mine but obviously this happens very very seldom. A mad experience. There`s so much more stories and details about the mines but I could be writing for the night.
We hit Potosi at a good time because there was a massive festival for kids on Saturday. The place was electric with fancily dressed nippers nipping all over the place, bangers being shot off every minute or so, brass and flute bands and big crowds everywhere. Cool. We hit the town of Potosi on sat night too. It`s not really the same as going out in back home or even in some of the bigger cities we were in. Wasn`t really happening but still managed 3 pubs and a club. One club we bolted from as it looked a bit camp. Music in the club was a disaster too and they woldn`t sell you drink too easily, twas a bit odd. Went looking for another spot in vain. Ended up getting chips and a burger from the dodgiest stall in the universe served by a wrinkly old woman with dirty dirty nails. Mmmmmm . and we still didn`t call Hughie J Couldn't find water either so when we went back to the hostel we lashed out the iodine tabs and knocked back the tap water. Saw three fights around the town during the night aswell. Two bloody noses. One fella got a smack and got his jacket whipped and the new owner donned it straight away and off he sauntered as if nothing happened.
 
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