Coban - Indiana Wayneo y Mishio y los rios de fury

Trip Start Sep 09, 2008
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Trip End Aug 17, 2009


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Where I stayed
Casablanca
(Coban hotels)

Flag of Guatemala  , Western Highlands,
Tuesday, October 21, 2008

In the pouring rain we left Raxruja early Tuesday morning in an attempt to reach Coban. As the day progressed, it turned out to be one of the most interesting and unexpected journeys in all of our travels up until now. We were aware of the rising rivers but werenīt expecting the true nature of the problem until we pulled up to the first of three flooded roads. Unable to continue, the chicken bus dumped us at the edge of what looked like a lake, with the road disappearing into its muddy depths and reappearing some forty meters on the other side. Mish opted for a small boat to ferry her across, whilst Kristoff, Cameron and I headed for a makeshift bridge erected by some locals who waited until we were half way across before charging us all five Quetzals. When you are balanced on a plank, a few feet above dirty, cold water, carrying a backpack that threatens to throw you off balance at any moment, you pay whatever is asked of you. One down, two to go.....
A waiting chicken bus on the other side took us to the next stretch of road that had been claimed by the rising water. This one had a small community of locals selling their wares at the waters edge and we couldnīt turn down the opportunity of a quick meal of chicken with rice, followed by a cup of magical Central American coffee. Iīll add at this point that this regionīs coffee is the best I have ever tasted and coffee will not taste the same once we leave. Well fed and watered, no pun intended, we headed to the riverīs edge and realized that this time the water was shallow enough to wade across. Without hesitation, we rolled up our shorts and made for the other side. After avoiding tidal waves caused by the passing cars we made it safely across and jumped onto an open back truck and headed further south. Two down, one to go......
The last flooded section of road was by far the deepest and left us little choice but to jump on one of the many rafts, excitedly erected by the locals. We were pulled and shoved, each owner of a raft desperately trying to persuade us that his craft was safer and better than his counterparts. Eventually we were all bullied onto a very shoddy looking wooden structure and pulled and pushed over the water. It took eight guys to pull me and Cameron across and a few of them fell over in the water as they struggled with our weight. Amazingly, still dry, we all made it.
An hour or so later we reached Coban and checked into a hostel. On reflection, we all agreed that it had been the most exciting day of our trip so far. The hustle and bustle of the local people, the excitement of the unexpected and the feeling that we had experienced something a little out of the ordinary left us all with a feeling of achievement. This day will take some beating.
Coban offered little else but good local street food and cheap rum. Our main reason for reaching the town was to then head east towards Semuc Champey national park, famed for itīs caves and limestone pools.

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