Tulum - White sand and an empty wallet

Trip Start Sep 09, 2008
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Trip End Aug 17, 2009


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Where I stayed
Mar Caribe

Flag of Mexico  , Yucatan Peninsula,
Sunday, October 12, 2008

Thanks to all our friends for your kind words. Itīs nice to know you are all thinking of us, as we are thinking of you also and missing the time we all spend together.

A twelve hour overnight coach journey brought us from Palenque to Tulum. We arrived at 5am and scrambled to the beach in time to catch a cloudy but nevertheless gorgeous sunrise. We were both very tired but the sight of crystal clear water lapping over pure white sand lifted our spirits high. We sat there, together, letting the scenery do the talking while we soaked up the morning sun. There is nothing quite like the re-energizing power of the sun, no wonder the Mayans held it in such high regard. A few hours later, after strolling along the coastline, we found a nice cabana on the beach which was to be our home for the next three days.
Tulum, hmmmmmm. We both have mixed feelings about our experience here. We came for the beach, the ruins and the peaceful ambiance. The beach, as I have mentioned was perfect. Our cabana was basic but comfortable and virtually on top of the beach. Tulum itself didnīt live up to expectations in a number of ways. What we thought was the laid back "backpacker" version of Cancun was actually a laid back tourist trap, where the locals view visitors as a source of income and little else. This seemed to be the general view amongst many of the people we met there. For some, it was their first experience of Mexico but I assured them that Tulum wasnīt the Mexican "norm". I donīt want to run down the place but it just wasnīt the cheap alternative to Cancun that we were expecting.
While we were there, Mish and I decided to treat ourselves to a day of Cenote diving and sea fishing. Cenotes are fresh water pools, hidden in the jungle with tunnels that lead out to the sea. Our guide lead us to one close by, where we excitedly plunged in and used a snorkel to look at all the fish swimming around in their own little jungle oasis. It was an amazing place, like a swimming pool in the middle of the jungle. I could see the tunnel that lead out to the sea but I didnīt go too near itīs dark opening for fear of what lurked within. On the sea side, our guide and I dived to the entrance of the cenote, where large fish danced in the mixture of fresh and salt water. The sea took on a strange color as the too mixed together. I could see the opening that lead to the cenote but couldnīt get near due to the pressure of the fresh water spilling out. I would like to dive these holes again one day with a tank, rather than a snorkel.
We set off after wards for the open sea and a spot of fishing. The bait was a small fish with a lure attached just above it's head. The intended catch....anything with nasty, big teeth. Three hours passed with only one near miss and so our skipper headed for storm, informing us that our chances would increase with the rain, and rain it did! The sky turned a very dark shade of grey as did the sea and the shoreline disappeared. The rain came down so hard it started to hurt our skin. When the storm passed, all that was left were four wet humans and boat with no fish. However, undeterred, we ploughed on and within half an hour Mish realled in a small Barracuda to the delight of everyone. With a new found confidence we continued and within twenty minutes or so I had a bite on my line. It was a struggle and admittedly I needed the help of the skipper, but eventually I realled in a Barracuda over one meter long with teeth to match. On the journey back I kept a keen eye on this beast as it thrashed around on the bottom of the boat. I didn't want to lose any toes so early on in our trip! There was an audience waiting for us when we arrived back on shore and everyone was very interested in the beast we had pulled form the sea. It made for very good eating that night, I must add.
Before we left, I had to visit the ruins of Tulum. Nestled on the clifftop, overhanging the tropical waters, these ruins are a most impressive sight. The ruins are modest but you do get a sense of the quality of life the Mayan people who lived here must have enjoyed. Unlike the ruins at Palenque, in the middle of the jungle and miles form any coastal resort, Tulumīs ruins are spoilt somewhat by their proximity to Cancun and itīs hordes of tourists. It was hard to get a picture without another person being in frame.
So, we made best of the time we had in Tulum, even if it wasnīt the place we were expecting it to be. If you want a beach holiday in Mexico, where money isnīt an issue, then this is the place. However, Mexico has much more to offer.
Itīs nearly the end of our time in Mexico. Central America beckons our arrival.

XX
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Comments

eddiemurphy
eddiemurphy on Oct 16, 2008 at 06:13PM

Big kisses XXXXX
Hey Kanjers, It is nice to see that it goes well with you, despite the nasty message from Wayne's grandmother. I am a bit jealous of you when I see some of your adventures. I think I had about the crocodiles than beaten. Lots of fun and enjoy it, but do you do with the images. We miss you. Love you and big kisses XXXXX

bethandollie
bethandollie on Oct 19, 2008 at 02:46AM

Great tips - thanks Guys!
We're loving reading your BLOG, puts us to shame, we are way behind. After we left you in Palenque we went to Campeche, Merida, Uxmal, Chichen Itza, Cancun and now Isle Mujeres. Tomorrow we leave for Tulum, but thanks to your advice we may only stay for one day now. Isle Mujeres, whilst is set up for Backpackers, is very touristy also and our money is running thin too (we blame the beer mainly).

Thanks for the tips on the Mexican border, we've heard from other sources that it can be a little dodgy, so we'll try and cross early in the morning also.

Not sure if we'll catch up with you guys but we'll keep checking your BLOG for updates.

Take care
Beth and Ollie x
(www.bethandollie.blogspot.com)

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