Pardon me boy, is that the Machu Picchu choo-choo?

  Machu Picchu, Peru
Sunday, March 30, 2008

Early morning, Friday 28 March, we were picked up early from Villa Marlena and driven the 20km or so to Ollantaytambo station (track 29?...errrr, no, there was only one platform).  We were due to board the Hiram Bingham train to Aguas Calientes, at the foot of the mountain leading to Machu Picchu.  
 
We boarded the train which, after 30 years of Network South Central and its various abominable incarnations, was of a parallel universe.  Yes, it was a train, with an engine and carriages and everything, but there the similarity ended:
 
Before boarding, a uniformed guard sought me out 'Can I look at your ticket sir...Ahhh Mr Back; if you'd like to follow me sir, you are in carriage A just along here' (Network South Central: 'dunno when the 8.27's arriving').
 

 
Once on board we were shown to our table and armchairs (armchairs?) and asked if we would care for a drink.  A four course brunch with wine followed. (NSC: 'Got yer money stuck in the chocolate machine mate? Nuffink I can do about it, is there?).
 
Along the way, the carriage guide gave us a running commentary 'if you look to your left, you'll see the start of the famous Inca trail' (NSC: 'We've been held at a red signal for the last twenty minutes; I've no idea why....')
 
The only downside to the journey was the table behind us.  Having roundly criticized so many from other nations for their behavior in public, it was the turn of the Brits.  A Scotsman and his English wife, accompanied by their silent Mrs. Warboys-ish companion were spouting forth to an American couple about any subject that happened to crop up..... 'of course we are interested in your elections...we British realise that the President of the United States is the most important man on earth'....'our musical tastes are extremely varied, but you can't underestimate the effect of Buddy Holly until his untimely suicide in the seventies'....etc. etc. I really wanted to use Vaughan Dean's line on him: 'you know, listening to you I've realised that between us we have total and universal knowledge.  You seem to know absolutely everything about everything except that you are a complete bore, and I know that..... 
 
But I sat and ground my teeth.  As Jane said 'ignore them; just drink your wine, enjoy the journey and thank God it's not Network South Central' 
 
After a relaxing trip of about one and a half hours, we reached Aguas Calientes and checked into the Inkaterra Hotel.  That afternoon, we were taken by bus up the Hiram Bingham highway (a zig-zagging single track dirt road with coaches thundering along in both directions) up to the lost city of Machu Picchu.  Well it was lost until discovered by, yup, you've guessed it.......Hiram Bingham, back in 1911.
.
 

 
The walk up the final couple of hundred metres left us a bit breathless, but never the less it was well worth the effort.  Rather than me try to convey the spectacle, try looking at http://www.labyrinthina.com/bingham.htm.  
 

 
Probably the most impressive aspect of the city is the way it has been restored - only by comparing the present state with photos taken by Bingham at the time of discovery can one fully grasp the extent of the work that has gone into the restoration.  As we wandered round the city we passed our favourite Scotsman, who was loudly lecturing his guide on Inca architecture......
 
Unfortunately for me, Christine Corner had nobbled Jane just before we left for South America and impressed upon her that if there was one thing we just had to do during the trip, it was see the sun rise over Machu Picchu. 
 
Thus it was that the alarm clock duly rang at 4.30 the following morning.  Fortunately, there were other nutters like us (and Christine) around the place, and breakfast was served from 5am.  We caught the first coach up at 5.30, and made the last part of the climb by a little after 6, ready for the sunrise. 
 
Nobody had told the weather we were coming, and the presence of the rain clouds and swirling mist meant....no visible sunrise.  
 


 

Having mentally made a note to thank Christine next time I saw her, we quickly recovered from the disappointment and set off to explore Machu Picchu in the company of far fewer tourists and loads of llamas, which was great.  

 
 


The only problem was that Jane had started to suffer from altitude sickness, so we gingerly made our way down.  We couldn't understand Jane's problem; at around 2,400m., Miachu Picchu was no higher than the Atacama desert.
 
We spent a relaxing afternoon kicking around the hotel and that afternoon, we boarded the Hiram Bingham train to travel to Cusco and the next part of the trip.
 
Whilst waiting for the train to start, we got talking to an English family who we had seen on the outward trip.  As we chatted, the Scots bore and party appeared on the platform.  The three and a half hour trip back suddenly expanded into an eternity......and then they got in the next carriage.  A collective sigh of relief passed through our carriage.  It turned out that the English family had been sitting the other side of him on the outward trip and had suffered just like us.  Had we but known, we could have carried out an effective pincer movement....
 

The trip back to Cuzco was uneventful, with a five course meal seemingly expanding to fill the three and a half hour trip time.  Both of us feeling slightly queasy, what with all this altitude.....