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Jane's scribbles
Entry 4 of 17 | show all | print this entry |
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We were sad to leave Argentina but Chile was calling us from the other side of the Andes. To travel through the mountains meant 4 bus journeys and 3 lake crossings- all in one day! And that day didn't get off to a great start. The taxi driver dropped us off at a dark and deserted (except for the usual stray dogs) bus station-assuring us that someone one would be there at 8am to take our luggage- at least I think that's what he said- anyway eventually someone turned up and our great Andes road/lake trip begun!
Billed as one of the most beautiful journeys in the world and I think it would have been if much of the scenery hadn't been covered in a veil of mist and driving rain, but from time to time the sun broke through and we really could appreciate the enormity of the mountains, the rain forests and the huge lakes.
Nothing much around except the odd Condor flying overhead and the chatter of excited American tourists
We began to prepare for the Chilean border at Poella well in advance with forms to complete and a strict warning that our luggage would be thoroughly searched by the border police. We assumed they would be looking for drugs, but no it was fruit and vegetables and anything else that might have disease that could be passed onto what apparently is Chile's excellent fruit and vegetable hygiene record. Even some handicrafts might be confiscated if they contained seeds or natural material. People began eating apples very quickly - Terry began to worry about a little bag of tea in our luggage that we were given for a present at a previous hotel. Could tea bags have bugs in them? Should he declare them?
We all lined up outside a little hut and went in one by one to identify our luggage- the fact that it was there at all was a relief. Anyway, we obviously didn't look like fruit eaters because they hardly looked at ours- so our passport was stamped and we were officially in Chile!
We were allowed a short break at Poella- there was a hotel there. An interesting hotel - totally empty except for three groups of people playing cards. The noisiest was a group of middle aged Australians who as it turned out were joining us for the rest of the trip- they didn't look up from their card game for the rest of the journey. In the hotel, Terry bought me a beer and then scuttled off to see if he could get a wireless connection to get the Millwall result- he wished he hadn't bothered- lost 0-1at home again!
On our way again- met a couple from a street away from us in Islington so discussed local pubs etc for a while and a couple of very pretty American girls from LA who I couldn't prise Terry away from. The rain came down harder and as on the last leg of the journey they had to separate us into smaller coaches as there were lots of mud slides down the mountains. A bit scary but the driver was fantastic and it wasn't as if there was any other traffic to worry about!
Finally arrived at Puerto Varas, colonised by the Germans in the mid 1880s (no, they were invited in by the Chilean government) and at first glance it did look like a German lakeside village- we were pretty exhausted so just ate at the hotel. The food was very good though- in fact one feature of our journey has been the fantastic food. In two and a half weeks, I have only had one course which wasn't great- otherwise we have had amazing meals. It is going to be a battle to keep the weight off.
The next day we went on a day excursion to Chiloe- an island that is reached by a ferry from Puerto Montt, about 30 minutes away- think Woolwich ferry and you'll get the idea. But unlike the Thames, the sea was full of Sea Lions. They wouldn't keep their heads up for long enough to take a decent picture though..
Chiloe was very interesting- we went to the two main towns- Ancud and Castro. The Chiloeans are quite insular, have their own customs and traditions and in particular are very religious and have built a number of beautiful churches almost all in wood.
We were there on Palm Sunday so in the square in Ancud, saw a service outside with people waving branches of something- certainly weren't palms! Stopped at a market and joined the locals in a crowded little shack for a drink and empanadas de mariscos (delicious little pies filled with seafood)
The houses used to be made entirely of wood though many now use plastic as much of the trees in the area are now protected. They are built above the lakes on stilts into the hillside. Stopped at Castro for lunch in a little hotel which was fun and then visited the local handicraft market - mainly woollen goods though and hopefully we won't need woolly hats and scarves for the rest of the trip. Our guide Cervante discovered that Terry and he had motor bikes in common and for the rest of the trip was only really interested in talking about bikes and biking equipment!
Back to the ferry and this time the crossing was much shorter -because an ambulance roared onto the ferry so they seemed to find a quicker way across. In the evening walked along the lake shore to a great restaurant- oysters followed by conger eel stew for Terry and Chupe( a sort of thick crab soup with cheese) for me- absolutely delicious and less than the price of a pizza in London.
Back to the hotel to get packed up for our flight to Santiago the next day.
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