Water wheels of Hama

  Hama, Syria
Sunday, March 26, 2006

Hama is a little city on the Orontes River about 60km north of Homs, population about a half million I'd guess, which I'd heard was a bit of alright and a pleasant stop whilst heading to Aleppo. So instead of cruising by on my way from Palmyra, I hopped out of the minibus to take a look around.



Unfortunately the weather wasn't going to cooperate. As I head further north it looks as though it will get colder and wetter. Anyway, in between intermittent showers I did have a chance to get out and see the bizarre things that Hama is famous for - its water wheels or 'Noria'.





From what I can gather, these things have been used for a couple of thousand years to irrigate the surrounding valleys. Self-perpetuating as they roll with the river current and ranging in sizes up to 20 metres high, they scooped water out of the low-lying Orontes and deposited it in aqueducts that then distributed it to the farmlands.



I use the past tense for a reason - none of the Noria I saw were actually working and it seems they haven't for a while judging by the soupy, sluggish river and also by the fact that none of the wheels had any obvious scoops to speak of. Most of the aqueducts are in an advanced state of disrepair too. Still, they are quite a feat of engineering and there are plenty of them to check out. I counted maybe a dozen and there would have been more.



Hama also has an Azem Palace which is very similar to that found in Damascus as described in a previous entry. This is fair enough as the same Governor who built the Damascus palace built this one before moving down there. Obviously Hama's is a smaller version but the ablaq masonry and the elegantly carved internal decorations are certainly in the same vein. I actually thought the internal woodwork was better here than in Damascus, but unfortunately I had a guy lead me through every room so I couldn't get any pictures.



Back outside, the old quarter yielded some nice sights including a mosque built by Saladin's farther, Nurhadin. The weather was closing in again by this time so I had to seek shelter and a cuppa.



A night stroll was worth the effort too as aqueducts, fountains, gardened waterfalls and streets have been tastefully festooned with lights to great effect. I missed seeing any lit up Norias but the central ones are being renovated in time for peak season so they've probably cut the power for the time being.

So in all, a whirlwind water-wheel stop in Hama. It's a nice place but the river isn't the most appealing so unless you're really into fluid dynamics or medieval carpentry I wouldn't bother with a visit - apparently Aleppo is the place to be!

Next entry -> Aleppo, or Haleb to the locals.

Words from the Wise #24

"Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic."
Anonymous