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Global roaming: overland from Sydney to Scotland,
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Up the road to Mandalay without a paddle
Entry 44 of 228 | show all | print this entry |
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Rudyard Kipling wrote a famous work called the Road to Mandalay, which is slightly ironic as he apparently never came here, limiting himself in Yangon and nearby Moulmein instead. Maybe Lonely Planet got that wrong (they have been known to get a few things wrong when it comes to Myanmar) but you must admit, the name certainly has a ring to it, which no doubt helped old Ruddy's sales.
I wasn't so fortunate with my short visit, being attacked again by the Rangoon Runs on my only full day in town (I'll get you Devi the Indian diner, I know it was you!!!). Still, that meant half a day to tour Mandalay Fort, another bunch of quite appealing temples and monasteries, and of course, Mandalay Hill. Despite missing out on some golf and a trip to the ancient city of Mingun to see a really big bell, I caught up on some more local political doctrine and exposed myself to further quality world brands. What more could I ask for? Indeed.
To get here, the bus ride from Yangon was a sixteen hour adventure sport over one of the world's worst major arterial highways. The bus was packed to the gills, with special fold out seats at regular intervals in the aisle completing the concept of sardine heaven. We continuously jolted over ruts and potholes large enough to swallow mopeds, stopped at roadside diners so seedy the moths went elsewhere to buzz the lights, and I doubt we changed driver the whole way through. Whatever your guidebook says - pay the extra money and GET A TRAIN OR PLANE!
We eventually made it however, so after finding a guesthouse and a power nap to rejuvenate some strength I hit the town to see some sights. The first was the central Mandalay Fort, a massive structure ringed by a wide moat, at the dead centre of town, that itself takes up around 4 km square of land. Slightly lightheaded from lack of sleep and the jubilation of bus survival, I thought to myself "It's only a 'K' each side, no worries walking around it to the Hill". Off I went.
  
It quickly became apparent that it was more like two kilometres on a side and it was going to be bloody long and hot walk. Still, one had to admire the structure, with funky crenellated walls (apparently up to eight metres high and three metres wide at the base) and imposing pagoda style defensive turrets featuring regularly along each side. Flights of dragonflies ranged up and down the bordering fence, drifting in the breeze over the moat. Even the propaganda signage added effect to the still operational military base. I suppressed an urge to try and sneak a peek inside.
 
Despite a nice breeze, after one side and two kilometres of solid walking I started to survey alternative transportational options. Like a guardian angel a trishaw driver called Mr Win Tin descended upon me, intent to whisk me up the eastern side of the fort and show me the sights that lay yonder. Lead on Macduff.
  
The wooden monastery called Schwenandaw Kyaung was first stop, an attractive and delicate structure dating back to 1827, interesting in the fact that it hadn't fallen apart due to its fragility or succumbed to fire in that time. I wasn't keen on dipping another $US10 into the govermnent's slush fund at this stage so had to settle for some photos of the externals of this and another significant neighbouring temple in this 'architectural zone'. As there's apparently little inside either that was probably a good deal.
Teachings of Buddha, carved into 1,774 marble slabs by a hermit in 1913 (who must have been a faster worker than your average hobo - nice one Hermy), was next on the agenda. Each of these slabs are housed within individual stupas at a temple (name debatable and probably not important) nearby. The resulting field of white bell shaped monuments is very pleasing to the eye and photo lens, although difficult to gauge or present with any idea of scope or immensity. I have a feeling there probably isn't 1,774 stupas, but there is a lot - and as the temple is free it's well worth a drive by.
 
Then came the piece de resistance - Mandalay Hill for the sunset. It didn't look so big when surveyed from the bridge across the moat halfway down the eastern side of the fort, but when it came to scaling upwards of 1,000 steps (966 someone said) whilst dodging a variety of shrines and persistent souveneir vendors, at the end of a very long day, it was also bloody hard work. The young monk that befriended me and asked questions all the way up probably didn't help either.
  
Still, the view of the city, the distant and immense Irrawaddy river and the ring of mountains beyond was well worth the effort. From my earlier travels through the mean streets below, I knew that Mandalay, despite its pretty name, has the same problems with poverty, despair and discontent as Yangon. However, up here at this serene vista, it's possible to imagine Mandalay inspiring some great work of art, even if Kipling didn't have to see it in the end to write his.
 
In one of the shrines on the temple mount I noticed an gramatically challenging and slightly optomistic sign extolling the virtues of life in the shade of Mandalay Hill. After my experiences I think it should probably read, "The person who want to live a long live should never eat at Devi's Restaurant, sheltered by the shade of the Mandalay Hill, nor drive in small blue Mazda taxis they have down there", as pictured above left. I doubt Mazda would ever put there name to such a dodgy conveyance, or whether I'd ride in one again, knowing that bus driver is still out there somewhere...
Next entry -> Fields of temples at Bagan
The (Myanmar) People's Desire
This also comes from The New Light of Myanmar newspaper, although I noticed it on billboards around Mandalay as well. I thought I got a picture of one but it ain't in the files so obviously not... Anyway, it's pretty extreme and would probably deserve a laugh if it wasn't taken so seriously by those in power.
* Oppose those relying on external elements, acting as stooges, holding negative views
* Oppose those trying to jeopardise stability of the State and progress of the nation
* Oppose foreign nations interfering in internal affairs of the State
* Crush all internal and external destructive elements as the common enemy
Thanks guys, I can just your common Myanman voluntarily uttering such tripe.
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