I met my new boyfriend when we pulled up next to a schoolbus at a roundabout in Safi. I was looking in at all the kids who were squashed into this van, all of them sitting on the floor and on top of each other. They all stared back at me, so I waved to them, which led to one boy at the back of the bus, shyly hiding behind the curtain and continuously popping out to blow me kisses. Dad said I'd met my future husband, but he was wrong, because when we got to Oualidia I met the man of my dreams.
He's a 49 year old, ugly, toothless Moroccan man, who looks at least 79. He has a 23 year old wife and young kids, but lives alone in a tent on the roadside.
He was the guardian of our vehicle for the night. When we had arrived in Oualidia we found our campsite deserted and under water, so ended up staying on the roadside with this ugly, toothless man guarding us. It was actually a great deal, dirt-cheap and we had a great view, as we were parked inches from the sea.
We left Essaouira and drove north along the coast to Oualidia, passing fields being ploughed by donkeys and children with school bags, walking along the roadside in the middle of nowhere. They would wave as we passed and we were always unsure whether they were trying to stop us to sell something, or whether they were just curious and friendly. As we drove we looked across at peaceful sandy beaches and fields of crops not far from the sea.