Beautiful remote island

Trip Start Jan 02, 2008
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60
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Trip End Jun 17, 2008


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Where I stayed
Bulon Resort
(Chiang Mai hotels)

Flag of Thailand  ,
Tuesday, April 29, 2008

The only thing I'd planned to do whilst in Thailand was to go diving in Koh Tao.  But whilst I was waiting for the boat from Koh Phangan a storm broke out.  I realized that diving wouldn't be great, if at all possible, for the next few days, so sadly I had to change my plans.  I decided to head to an island down south, but wasn't sure which one.  I started my 17 hour journey by catching the night boat to Surat Thani.  The sea was rough and I really thought I was going to be seasick.  But luckily I was able to sleep, because instead of seats the entire floor of the boat was lined with mattresses.  From Surat Thani I wanted to get a local bus somewhere south.  But in my attempt to get to the bus station, I got caught in a tourist trap and had no choice but to get a tourist mini-bus at rip-off price.  The journey was easy, although I was told it was a direct bus and I had to change 4 times.  Also I arrived in Pak Bara 2 1/2 hours late, so I missed the daily boat to the island I had decided to go to.   Had to spend a night at Pak Bara port and there isn't alot to do.  Although there was a little festival going on and I was entertained by kids who were fascinated by me sketching.  I went to a pharmacy where no-one could speak English and my sign language didn't work.  Had to go behind the counter and read all the bottles, the majority of which were written in Thai.  I found the odd drug name in English and had to do self-medication.  I learnt that prawns are not fish, when I ordered papaya salad and requested no fish or crabs, but still got prawns.  They were shocked when I said I also didn't eat prawns. 
Just before I was meant to get the boat I realized I didn't have much cash on me.  The island I was going to would be isolated and wouldn't have an ATM, so I had to dash to the nearest one which was 10km from the port.  Luckily I didn't miss the boat after my 24 hour wait.

It's off-season so boats are limited to the islands.  I had seen ferries full of people going to other islands and I was expecting the daily boat to Koh Bulon to be the same.  But I was wrong.  There were 3 of us on the "ferry" (small boat) and we had to climb onto it by scrambling through another boat and trying not to drop our bags in the sea.  I was beginning to wonder why no-one else was coming to this island, but when I arrived I was happy that it was deserted.  The boat pulled up as close as possible to a beautiful white sandy beach.  We threw our bags off the boat and then had to jump down onto the beach.  I landed in the sea.  We were alone.  No touts or tuck-tuck drivers pestering us.  No-one noticed we'd arrived.  No-one tried to sell us anything.  It was great.  

I stayed in a little wooden hut only a few steps away from the beach.  I could watch the sunrise over the sea from my balcony.  The huts around me were empty.  The beach was deserted.  I was alone and very happy to be on this remote island.  It's tiny, just woods, beach and clusters of wooden bungalows.  No roads.  Electricity is limited, only available between 6pm and midnight, if you're lucky, it usually cuts off earlier.  There are a few restaurants, the majority of which were closed because there were no tourists.  I found 2 restaurants open, although they had limited food and opening hours.   Occasionally I was hungry when they were closed, so had to go around poking my head into peoples huts asking for food.  I was usually invited into their home and they cooked for me.  In the woods I found 2 shops, that sold water, toilet paper, noodles and biscuits.   In peak season it could be very different; food might not be as difficult to come by, but the island might not be as peaceful.  I liked it off-season.  Although after 3 nights of solitude and not a lot to do, I started to get itchy feet and had to leave...time for a new country...a city!
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