Tea and Pie-ty
Trip Start
Sep 08, 2006
1
19
24
Trip End
??? ??, 2007
Banjul,
Gambia
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
At 10:30 each day, a playground-bell rings out around the office. Everybody downs tools and gathers outside under the shade of the large mango tree where the table has been set like the mad hatters tea party. For fifteen minutes everybody from the director down to the farm labourers, come together for a cuppa and a natter, to exchange greetings and gossip, and more often than not, instantly resolve any outstanding work matters. I've learned more about projects, staff, and issues in these mini-breaks than I have in any formal meeting. It's not the channel of communication that maybe I'm used to, but somehow it works.
For the last month, this ritual has been a rather quieter affair with only the small number of toubabs and the rare Gambian Christian in attendance.
Saturday was Koriteh - the festival marking the end of the holy month of Ramadan. For the last 30 days, Muslims (i.e. most Gambians) have been fulfilling specific religious observances. The most obvious of these is fasting - no food or liquid should pass one's lips from sunrise to sunset - hard enough to do anywhere but a particular challenge in sub-saharan Africa. One of the main reasons behind this sacrifice is to help followers feel sympathy for those less fortunate than themselves. In a country where the majority of people live in absolute poverty, I am in awe to see how committed people are to fulfilling this obligation.
But it's not just about the diet. Ramadan is also about prayer, charity, self-reflection and spiritual cleansing. The devout are expected to refrain from listening to non-religious music, watching irreverent tv, losing their temper, engaging in gossip or sarcasm, or having impure thoughts.
Being the culturally sensitive person I am, I completely forgot this last one when I came across an explicit shot of two Z-list celebrities in a magazine. Curious as to whether I was the only one who found such a graphic photo offensive, I turned to my Gambian friend for his opinion. After two weeks of enforced self-control, he clearly did not appreciate having naked pictures thrust into his face and he ran away from me. Very fast. Mortified, I then added insult to injury by chasing after him and attempting to make it up to him by offering him chocolate cake. I am extremely lucky Ramadan is also about forgiveness.
Saturday was a sight to behold. Hundreds of people were out on the streets dressed in their new outfits, the scent of cooking eminated from every compound, music was pumping and children scampered everywhere hyped up on the pursuit of Salibou (basically the Gambian equivalent of trick or treating, only these kids aren't going to fobbed off with a couple of jelly sweets, they're going for the cold hard cash). I am mildly embarrassed that I slipped away from the Koriteh celebrations for two hours to watch the world cup rugby, but clearly it was the right decision because my presence enabled England to win.
The practical upshot of all this festivity upon my office is that today for the first time in a month, everybody was back at the tea-table. Honestly it was like a long-lost reunion. We all conveniently forgot that we had actually seen each other on Friday (and every day before that) and concentrated on the unabashed joy at being able to bond over the teapot once more. Hearty handshakes and hugs all round. I loved it and it more than compensated for my slight resentment that us heathens would have to go back to sharing the biscuits.
