Playa Negra, not Marbella...
Trip Start Nov 03, 2009
29Trip End Ongoing
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A first ever happened today…Mike and I walked into a bar together and all we got was two bottles of water. Just seems ironic.
Yeah, so we rented a Suzuki Grand Vitara and drove here to Playa Negra today. Rode out of Sun Dancer at 7 a.m.; (the waves/sandbars in Dominical went to shit). Checked into Café Playa Negra and it's absolutely sick…in a good way. Clean, open, good air flow and right in the middle of "town".
Surfed for a few hours then watched Brian charge 'til dark. He sure loves this wave; don’t think he’ll ever admit it…but it could be his favorite wave. Swell was showing, but so was high-tide so conditions weren’t best. A transplant, Robbie, showed us some really good photos of the surf this morning…definitely got me amped for tomorrow
The country is sick, rental car is baller, and there’s swell…sweet.
This morning felt like a mid-summer morning; especially one where I didn’t have to work. Alarm kept going off…hit the snooze five times or so. All I wanted to do was sleep, even though the wind was howling offshore.
Brian and Mike charged while I enjoyed the luxury of the king-sized bed. Finally mustered the energy to shower around 8 o’clock; then it was “bread-fast” (bread and jam for breakfast) and coffee with the boys followed by a quick trip down the road to Playa Avallenas in search of an uncrowded peak. (Forgot to mention before this embarkment I managed to capture quite a few photographs on Mike’s camera).
“Hindsight is always 20-20,” don’t know how many times I’ve said that in my life…put me down for one more
Mike and I seriously traded left-after-left while Brian held down a sick right breaking on the other side of the rock. Feel like I’m rambling, but the set-up was so sick…definitely want to remember it. Few others were getting waves so it didn’t seem too unusual when everyone cleared out.
But when they all started shouting at us from the beach we were a little sketched out. Found out as we were fleeing the UV rays, they were yelling to tell us a crocodile 2 meters in length entered the surf from the river mouth (20 yards or less away).
Kind of freaky…guess that’s just Costa for you. “The Wild West” as I like to think of it as. Rural, kind of lawless, and full of untapped potential…people just living day-by-day paving the waves for future generations to come
The day is far from over, but I don’t think I’ll get a chance to write later. Heading over to Robbie’s house around 6 p.m. for a little “family” style meal with the boys. Lord knows we all need it…that and aloe.
Surfed Marbella for a while today; fun wave but not sure if it was worth the gut-wrenching car ride there, where we stalled out after gunning the rental through a creek bed.
But after eating at a local soda, we got tuned in at Robbie’s and shredded Negra with literally no one else out. Low-tide and onshore, we paddled out without even looking and scored really fun waves. It amazes me how that right just peels and peels, over and over again. Had to sit on the lawn for about an hour or so while the boys continued to shred…my skin just couldn’t take the punishment any longer
Even though it seems as if time stands still here in Negra, this past week has flown by and our departure tomorrow seems bittersweet. Almost fed crocodiles, surfed fun waves, and almost saw a local bull-riding event last night in Santa Cruz (but unfortunately I was experiencing the worst stomach cramps of my life and hit 4 separate bathrooms in a matter of an hour).
Robbie had us all so amped to go to the town fair, drink, and try to meet some ticas…it’s exactly what we needed; one more night out. But somewhere between the ATM, gas station, and the pharmacy my stomach kicked in…literally folding me in half, unable to walk
Woke up this morning when Mike and Brian returned from surfing…didn’t care to join because I think I’m literally surfed out for now. Yesterday I took 7 or 8 waves and spent the rest of the time on the beach; mainly just reflecting on my surroundings, this trip, and the uncertainty of what the future holds.
Ah the future…haven’t given it much thought, but I’m going to need some income because we made it rain on this trip. Charleston or Wrightsville I guess are my two options until this spring. Then it’s back to the Banks for the summer. California is where I really want to spend the spring again, we’ll see about that.
Panama City to Santa Catalina; Santa Catalina to Dominical; Dominical to Bocas; Bocas to Dominical; Dominical to Negra…that’s behind us. Ahead lies: Negra to San Jose and then San Jose to Panama City. That’s what tomorrow holds. We leave by 10 a.m. in the morning even though another sick swell is hitting…go figure.
For now, I’m feeling another trip to the bakery and perhaps another walk on the beach; beats sitting around all day.