Tourism - The New Imperialism
Trip Start
Jan 09, 2009
1
6
44
Trip End
Feb 23, 2009
Luang Prabang, Lao Peoples Dem Rep
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Cissy had already asked me:
"What do you think of Laos?" I couldn't really give her a straight answer in English, and when hers wasn't too good.
"I don't really know. I need more time to be here, but it seems OK. What do you think?"
"I think here is only so so. It's not beautiful like China."
She couldn't leave her country alone for one moment.
Sure, there are stunning resorts there: Jiuzhaigou, Tiger Leaping Gorge, to name a couple, but what about others that aren't that good; pollution masking the sun? At least the sun's shining here for days on end
Luang Prabang from the Up Above
. Before setting off, I did a lot of on-line research about Laos, thinking it would come in handy. It's not really the way to travel. You learn as you go along.
'Luang Prabang,' the Site asserted, 'because it is the stunning jewel of Asia, fitting snugly beside the Mekong, is truly a must-see.'
That's way over the top. The Sisavang Road area, the town's main artery, and the streets leading down to the river, with their countless guest houses, front shops, tourist agencies, and the night market which was actually not that spectacular and its imposed narrow spaces to pass through, a damned nuisance (you couldn't get past the stream of sleepwalking tourists who didn't think or feel the same way without bumping someone coming from the opposite direction). A few glittering temples (Wat Xieng Thong), the Palace Museum, and French colonial architecture, were bright and cheerful interspersed with palm trees, were also pleasant enough. But it only comprised the smaller area of town. The rest: stores, bus stations, eateries, other hideouts, was quite frankly grotty, and definitely did not merit a 'must-see.'
We ambled down to the riverside street and stopped off at an eatery where, much to Cissy and Mac's delight, was serving noodles with pork or beef; something Chinese could relate to
Captured in Sunlight
. The other cosmopolitan fare on offer displayed on a board was given the brush-off: "Oh, this is a Western menu," Mac recognized in a tone which indicated it wasn't for him.
Of course, you prat! Where are the majority of tourists that come here from? So much for my Chinese university students who constantly show an interest in Western food. I wish I'd taken a copy of the menu to show them, thus saving me the trouble to wearily explain what kind of Western food is served in England. Much like what was on that menu.
Mac was forced to use his English, impatiently ordering a bowl of the mien and pork from a languid Laos woman which I also did - anything that was cheap.
Until 1975, Luang Prabang was the Laos capital, and where its Royal Family once resided until the country became a socialist republic which it still is. The grounds of the Palace Museum were quite pleasant: tall rows of palm trees, a statue of the king; Haw Kham religious building glinting in the sunlight, but I didn't think the museum itself was worth the 30,000 Kip to get into.
You couldn't take your belongings inside. Mac made a bit of an issue about the lockers and key:
"Where should I leave it?"
I find tourist sights such as museums static fussy places where an aura of dull boredom tends to immediately set in, where the sleepwalking tourists get in each others way reacting as though nobody else is there
Inside
. But you learn as you go along. Mac understandably disagreed somewhat. "Didn't you think the photos of the Family quite lovely?"
Hmm...I missed those.
Loman and Cissy, already tuned to my sentiments, waited for us outside.
Immediately opposite the Museum, another 'must see' attraction beckons. Conspicuous from afar by its gold plated glittering spire, is the 'beautiful' Phou Si situated on top of a hill. A good place to view the sunset which we didn't wait for. However, another fee, 20,000 Kip, was required which got beneath Loman's skin:
"It's only a mountain. They're wanting you to pay for everything."
Sentiments aside, we toiled up a long flight of steps past more sellers and got a hazy view of the town, rivers and surrounds.
After lunch, we wanted to make a beeline for the next main attraction, the Kuang Si Waterfalls, but needed to ask our guest house proprietor for directions.
On the way in the car, it was time to air resentments and recriminations:
"It's unfair that Laos people aren't treating foreigners in the same way as them."
They're demanding we pay for everything that isn't worth it."
Apart from a vegetation experience, the 20,000 Kip fee to see the waterfall was also unmerited. Later, Loman pointed out a picture on a restaurant wall which was supposed to be the same as the top tier of the Falls but bared little resemblance
Typical Temple Grounds
. It turned out that I'd seen more waterfalls with more variety and attraction alone hiking in Japan for free than here. After a paltry dish of chicken or fish, we headed back to the guest house and downed a Beerlao or two, courtesy of Loman.
Mac formally drew us all together. He summarily announced his split with Cissy, although not before they'd had a preliminary disagreement, more like a bust-up. She would immediately head back to Kunming. The rest of us would stay on, although going our separate ways. Mac put on a pretentious apology trying to make it all sound sad. Not really. I'd intended to travel by myself anyway. It couldn't last. But thanks for the lift. Loman was of a like-mind, although he hadn't originally intended to come to Laos.
A few days ago I sat in Dicos over an iced soft drink talking about this trip with a couple of interested teacher colleagues. Talking about the more and more tourism gripping the Kingdom of Laos, one of them interestingly responded by saying:
"It's the new colonialism, encouraging Westerners."
"Yes, and this time, it's not controlled by them, French or otherwise."
More, and much more of this, was to follow.
