A Drab Affair. It Once Had Better Days
Trip Start
Jan 10, 2008
1
24
26
Trip End
Feb 06, 2008
Harbin,
China
Monday, February 4, 2008
Chinese cities can be very dull, drab, disappointing affairs, and Harbin's no exception. Let's give an example.
Apartment blocks, old, looking like prison blocks with bars up at the windows, are found in every area, although are slowly being replaced by newer more pleasant designs; a marked improvement. Roads, and alley ways are sometimes coal, soot, or coke-ridden; a feature of urban centers in the North-East, and Harbin has them also. Obsolete tall chimneys, or smoke-stacks, continue to spew out coal or other industrial smoke. All the features of Qinhuangdao, a small city smack on the Bohai Sea also in the North-East where I had been living for over three years, are Harbin's too.
I decided to switch hotels, given that I had dithered on the decision to stay another night, to one further along the same street from the Jinjiang Inn, across the street. It was 60 qui cheaper and not much difference in the standard save the room was smaller, the hot water supply was only turned on at certain intervals, and the toilet seat was broken off. But they did provide breakfast as fast food.
I decided to do another walkabout with the biting air freezing my cheeks, and pay another visit to St Sophia's. It had been converted into an art museum. I marched up to the front door, but before I could venture any further, a young guy ticket inspector said, "ticket?..ticket?"
Whoops! I'd not noticed and walked straight past the office. Better retrace my steps if I wanted to get in.
St Sophia's was the first Russian Orthodox Church I'd ever set foot in: dome, fanciful ornate lighting, frescoes, a replica of Da Vinci's The last Supper on the back wall while a picture, presumably of the saint herself hung in a prominent place. All very colorful.
Plaques were placed near numerous picks explaining Harbin's past glory which was the base for occupying powers in Manchuria; the Russians first, then the Japanese during the war years. The plaques also said that it's important not to forget the past, and that Harbin's contribution was just as important, although the European, Russian, Byzantine admixture of architecture is now hopelessly overwhelmed by new buildings engulfing and developing themselves into a big city. Given the Russian preservation marked at various places, I think the Russian had the more positive impact simply because of its brighter coloring.
Back inside St Sophia's, the dome with its flaking plaster had obviously seen better days. The picks also illustrated how difficult and harsh it was for the folks living during the time of the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty. Guangxu was the last emperor of the Dynasty. He had a most unfortunate time presiding over an imperial China. He was imprisoned for supporting a hundred days reform period by his aunt the Empress Dowager Ci Xi (or Tsu Hsi), and then bumped off when she became seriously ill and died, so he wouldn't have the chance of ever ruling independently, although she had already named her successor, little Pu Yi.
I thought about visiting two of three close temples which were, given time, in walking distance, but it was too late. I went into an eatery and had a large bowl of beef and noodles. The pasta was thick and the chunks of beef were the chunkiest I had ever tasted or chewed. I soon gave up looking for the bus stop and a bus to the temples, and took another stroll along Zhongyan Street, what with its quaint cobblestones, delightful Russian architecture, and ice sculptures lining the middle of the street. The most novel, of course, was the bar called 'Russian Standard,' not 'The Russian Bar.' Just take a peek, even if your not interested in ordering a drink, and view the benches with backs made of ice. It's well worth visit. Although the side streets leading off have Russian buildings, I don't quite agree that they are a museum show. Plenty of modern architecture has wormed its way in.
I walked up to the Songha River to watch people venturing onto the ice: slipping, having fun, whipping spinning tops with whips, and riding down scouts in sleighs for 10 Yuan a go. Having decided a couple of parks weren't up to much across the frozen waste, I retreated back to my hotel room. Harbin is like a revamped British town with revamped cinema. Being British myself, I could sense a connection.
I spent the rest of the evening watching a DVD of Irving Berlin's Easter Parade. What a treat! What a classic! Watch Ann Miller. She was a real mover. The film was enjoyable until near the end when it got stuck due to careless handling by Chinese factory packers, causing some scratches. I managed to push it to the very end, getting angry with Chinese for desecrating such a masterpiece.
