It Was 29 Years Ago Today
Trip Start
Feb 05, 2008
1
68
70
Trip End
Ongoing
Amsterdam,
Noord-Holland,
Netherlands
Friday, September 19, 2008
The Hotel Paradiso where Kevin and I stayed, just on the edge of the Red Light District is gone. I'm told it was there until about three or four years ago. Damn that place was cool, even if Kevin did have his camera stolen. Some other better, more modern hotel took the space. The Red Light District is much the same, although it seems there are more girls in windows. I don't remember things that clearly back that far and besides, I was just a kid.
There are more restaurants and bars now and the Bull Dog has four locations along Oudezijds Voorburgwal street (and one more over in Leidseplein near the Melkweg)
Greg free tour guide from Vancouver
. I think they have a spot in Utrecht now too. There's a long pedestrian shopping street, Nieuwendijk that runs parallel to Damrak and Rokin the main avenue that extends south from the Centraal Station. There you will find all the big-name shops. I remember the general look of the city well and it hasn't really changed. The population has changed quite a bit, now much more cultural diverse. Somehow back then it seemed more distinctly Dutch. Tourists are everywhere and it is exceedingly expensive. A bed in a dorm will run you around $50 unless you want to go well down market. Two of us had a double room with a shared bath in a boutique hotel in Manhattan for a hundred bucks. Mine, The Flying Pig, was an average hostel-with a great bar. The bar was so good I partied there on two consecutive evenings until the wee hours. Drinks were cheap, the tunes were as good as anywhere I'd been on this entire trip and the staff was a lot of fun. For some reason on Friday night they were in the mood to party and I wasn't complaining. I took my place up at the small bar and enjoyed many a complimentary shot of Bols (I thought I was in for a major hangover but came out unscathed.) and several reasonably priced pints, for Amsterdam (3.20 Euro). Out in the pubs and clubs around the hostel, pints were five Euro or more ($7.50). Ouch! That shoots the hell out of your $50 a day budget
Streetscapes
! Well okay, it went with the bed in the dorm. Then there's the other stuff, like say, food. Slices of pizza or sandwiches from the very tasty La Place fresh food market were around five bucks. There's always the fries with mayo for which Holland is known, nearly four bucks and speaking of change, no longer home made. A good burger would be pushing 10 bucks. I had to get out of there quickly. The Rembrandtplein and Leidesplein are significantly more developed in terms of cafes and bars which line both squares and their adjacent streets, offering all the foods the tourists love, like all you can eat spareribs for 12.50 Euro. Outta my price range. Vanessa came in from Hilversum one night and we had a really excellent vegetarian dinner at a place called Laitte just on the edge of the red light district and China town and then later, drinks at Rembrandtplein.
I took another free tour on my first day in town and it was excellent. I saw the widest and the narrowest houses in Amsterdam and learned that the reason many of the homes are leaning forward is not a foundation issue. I learned about 'coffee shops'. I learned a bit about the Nazi occupation and what happened to the Jewish people and their community. I learned about some other random historical things, like the coldest winter ever and the royal family
The Milkyway
. The Netherlands was once maybe the richest and most powerful country in the world and might have had it all had they not traded New York City to the Brits for a place called Sardinia (sp?). Sardinia? Where the hell is that? And can you believe they call their monument to gay people the 'Homo Monument? Paul Williams and Friends were playing at the Bourbon Street Blues Bar-Paul William? From Alberta? I think. Couldn't get down to see him though (see, partying in hostel, above.) Sometimes it's just really hard to move. A couple of days later I revisited the Van Gogh Museum, along with hundreds of others who were willing to fork over 12.50 Euro for the pleasure. I don't really remember it from last time but I know I was there. I would have liked to have had another look at Rembrandt's 'The Night Watch' at the Rijkmuseum but I wasn't willing to fork over the asking price there when that's about all I wanted to see. I remember being really taken by it last time.
The Red Light District is infinitely fascinating, day or night. It is tourist watching at its best. Don't try to take a photo of the girls or a big mean man will come and destroy your camera before unceremoniously dumping it in the nearest canal. Just so you know, this did not happen to me but I was forewarned
1-Streetscapes
. One night while strolling the area and watching people I went into a pub in the Red Light District called Old Sailor (yes, the Old Sailor). The music wasn't bad so I thought I'd step in and order a pint. I turned to check out the crowd and didn't see a single female, (or a married one or any females is what I really meant.). Suddenly I began to wonder if I had unwittingly stepped into a gay bar (Old Sailor, har har, arrr Billy and all that.). There are a few in the area. I wandered over to the door to look for the telltale rainbow flag or sticker that I might have missed on the way in but couldn't find any, although there were some multi-coloured light bulbs wrapping the sign. When I turned to go back in, I could swear the guys sitting and standing near the door were checking me out. Then it occurred to me, duh, it's 10 o'clock on a Thursday night in one of the world's most infamous red light districts.
One of the best things to do during the day is to wander off into the areas outside of the core central tourist spots. There you will see a much different and more appealing Amsterdam, where the people are friendlier too. I came across a little neighbourhood jazz festival one afternoon while walking in the vicinity of the big Vondelpark
2-Streetscapes
. All over town, there are local markets and all kinds of great cafes that sit along the streets on either side of many of the canals. I've got to go back when I have some serious money to spend. The Dam might just deserve a spot on the top 10 coolest cities of the world list. Five days was enough though. Let's just say it's not a place for the budget-minded traveler. I had to get out! It was now time for a quick look at small town Holland with a quick visit to Hilversum and Utrecht.
August, 1979 was the last time I visited Amsterdam. The Melkweg (The Milky Way) and the original Bull Dog Café remain. Unlike the rest of the city, neither has changed much, although the Bull Dog isn't the biker bar it once was, replete with Hells Angels in full colours and I didn't get inside the Milky Way this time. I gather it's still a multi-media venue but more club oriented on the music side. Otherwise, the Dam has changed a lot.
The Hotel Paradiso where Kevin and I stayed, just on the edge of the Red Light District is gone. I'm told it was there until about three or four years ago
3-Streetscapes
. Damn that place was cool, even if Kevin did have his camera stolen. Some other better, more modern hotel took the space. The Red Light District is much the same, although it seems there are more girls in windows. I don't remember things that clearly back that far and besides, I was just a kid. There are more restaurants and bars now and the Bull Dog has four locations along Oudezijds Voorburgwal street (and one more over in Leidseplein near the Melkweg). I think they have a spot in Utrecht now too. There's a long pedestrian shopping street, Nieuwendijk that runs parallel to Damrak and Rokin the main avenue that extends south from the Centraal Station. There you will find all the big-name shops.
I remember the general look of the city well and it hasn't really changed. The population has changed quite a bit, now much more cultural diverse. Somehow back then it seemed more distinctly Dutch. Tourists are everywhere and it is exceedingly expensive. A bed in a dorm will run you around $50 unless you want to go well down market. Two of us had a double room with a shared bath in a boutique hotel in Manhattan for a hundred bucks. Mine, The Flying Pig, was an average hostel-with a great bar. The bar was so good I partied there on two consecutive evenings until the wee hours
4-Streetscapes
. Drinks were cheap, the tunes were as good as anywhere I'd been on this entire trip and the staff was a lot of fun. For some reason on Friday night they were in the mood to party and I wasn't complaining. I took my place up at the small bar and enjoyed many a complimentary shot of Bols (I thought I was in for a major hangover but came out unscathed.) and several reasonably priced pints, for Amsterdam (3.20 Euro). Out in the pubs and clubs around the hostel, pints were five Euro or more ($7.50). Ouch! That shoots the hell out of your $50 a day budget! Well okay, it went with the bed in the dorm. Then there's the other stuff, like say, food. Slices of pizza or sandwiches from the very tasty La Place fresh food market were around five bucks. There's always the fries with mayo for which Holland is known, nearly four bucks and speaking of change, no longer home made. A good burger would be pushing 10 bucks. I had to get out of there quickly. The Rembrandtplein and Leidesplein are significantly more developed in terms of cafes and bars which line both squares and their adjacent streets, offering all the foods the tourists love, like all you can eat spareribs for 12.50 Euro. Outta my price range. Vanessa came in from Hilversum one night and we had a really excellent vegetarian dinner at a place called Laitte just on the edge of the red light district and China town and then later, drinks at Rembrandtplein.
I took another free tour on my first day in town and it was excellent. I saw the widest and the narrowest houses in Amsterdam and learned that the reason many of the homes are leaning forward is not a foundation issue. I learned about 'coffee shops'. I learned a bit about the Nazi occupation and what happened to the Jewish people and their community
5-Streetscapes
. I learned about some other random historical things, like the coldest winter ever and the royal family. The Netherlands was once maybe the richest and most powerful country in the world and might have had it all had they not traded New York City to the Brits for a place called Sardinia (sp?). Sardinia? Where the hell is that? And can you believe they call their monument to gay people the 'Homo Monument? Paul Williams and Friends were playing at the Bourbon Street Blues Bar-Paul William? From Alberta? I think. Couldn't get down to see him though (see, partying in hostel, above.) Sometimes it's just really hard to move. A couple of days later I revisited the Van Gogh Museum, along with hundreds of others who were willing to fork over 12.50 Euro for the pleasure. I don't really remember it from last time but I know I was there. I would have liked to have had another look at Rembrandt's 'The Night Watch' at the Rijkmuseum but I wasn't willing to fork over the asking price there when that's about all I wanted to see. I remember being really taken by it last time.
The Red Light District is infinitely fascinating, day or night. It is tourist watching at its best. Don't try to take a photo of the girls or a big mean man will come and destroy your camera before unceremoniously dumping it in the nearest canal
6-Streetscapes
. Just so you know, this did not happen to me but I was forewarned. One night while strolling the area and watching people I went into a pub in the Red Light District called Old Sailor (yes, the Old Sailor). The music wasn't bad so I thought I'd step in and order a pint. I turned to check out the crowd and didn't see a single female, (or a married one or any females is what I really meant.). Suddenly I began to wonder if I had unwittingly stepped into a gay bar (Old Sailor, har har, arrr Billy and all that.). There are a few in the area. I wandered over to the door to look for the telltale rainbow flag or sticker that I might have missed on the way in but couldn't find any, although there were some multi-coloured light bulbs wrapping the sign. When I turned to go back in, I could swear the guys sitting and standing near the door were checking me out. Then it occurred to me, duh, it's 10 o'clock on a Thursday night in one of the world's most infamous red light districts.
One of the best things to do during the day is to wander off into the areas outside of the core central tourist spots. There you will see a much different and more appealing Amsterdam, where the people are friendlier too. I came across a little neighbourhood jazz festival one afternoon while walking in the vicinity of the big Vondelpark. All over town, there are local markets and all kinds of great cafes that sit along the streets on either side of many of the canals. I've got to go back when I have some serious money to spend.
The Dam might just deserve a spot on the top 10 coolest cities of the world list. Five days was enough though. Let's just say it's not a place for the budget-minded traveler. I had to get out! It was now time for a quick look at small town Holland with a quick visit to Hilversum and Utrecht.
