One part Buda, three parts Pest
Trip Start
Feb 05, 2008
1
59
70
Trip End
Ongoing
Budapest,
Hungary
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Outside, a maze of OSB board fences line both sides of the sidewalks surrounding the Baross Ter. (square) which is under deconstruction/reconstruction so it's hard to get your bearings. You just have to see what looks right on the map and follow the crowd. 15 minutes later Eszter greets me with a big smile and captivating blue eyes at the door to the nearly brand new Big Fish Hostel. Her English is excellent and she has a lovely Hungarian accent. The reviews were right. It's a great hostel, perfectly located for around $22 a night and included all the delicious and strong filter coffee you can drink.
After my first day of walking around I quickly came to the conclusion that Budapest is the finest eastern European city I've visited thus far. Absolutely gorgeous. I've heard it said it has the most beautiful parliament buildings in all of Europe and after having seen them, I believe it. The city is split roughly in half by the Danube. The Buda side features the fortress and the citadel and the more stately older neighbourhoods and is slightly more touristy. The Pest side houses the gorgeous St Stephen's Basilica, the parliament building and big variety of restaurants, bars and shopping.
Thermal baths
I hit all the major sites, most notably an afternoon in one of the famous Budapest thermal pools, Szechenyi Baths, in the City Park. On the weekends they close the famous old 'Chain Bridge' to traffic, leaving it open to handicraft shops and food stalls that serve up delicious local cuisine. I had planned to spend two days at Sziget, but one was enough-and it wasn't cheap. Generally food prices are about half what they are back home. Beers started at just over a dollar for a half litre in the 0-24 Non-stop stores and were usually around $2.65 in restaurants, My favourites were Soprini, Deher, Borsodi and Arany Aszop (of which I drank copius quantities all day at Sziget). The ever present kebabs were only four bucks at most stands. But really all I can say is goulash and dumplings! Yes. Oh and the pork dishes, yes, yes.
The hostel was pretty social with time spent watching the Olympics now and then, each of us cheering for our own countries, me with little to cheer for. I met a cool Auzie dude, Russell and spent the day at Sziget with him. Liam and Lock, a couple of Manchester boys I'd met back in Bucharest showed up. About seven French boys from Paris and points north were there for a couple of nights. I was watching track with them and a two Brit couples. Everybody was commenting on the appearance of the girls when at one point one of the boys said 'Pas mal' and another said, 'Oui, por un englais', perhaps thinking we wouldn't understand. We had a good laugh while French dude blushed.
Budapest is a great town. There's lots going on, big gigs everywhere. I'll go back. Next up, Sopron, Hungary.
