TRANSYLVESTITE
Trip Start
Feb 05, 2008
1
55
70
Trip End
Ongoing
Brasov,
Transylvania,
Romania
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
I half expected to find a countryside dominated by steep, craggy mountain peaks framing narrow valleys cover by the omnipresent rolling dark clouds and lightning that strikes day and night. Brasov was anything but that. Instead, what I found was an attractive, Bavarian-like city with a real Austrian look, nestled in a treed lower alpine setting. It is nothing like Bucharest. It's clean and nicely maintained with a big cobble stoned, pigeon filled central square. It is the jumping off point for day trips to the Bran Castle, the Rasnov Fortress and Sighisoara, all of which I managed to see. As well, there's some great sites and hiking in and around Brasov itself. Plus there are about five ski hills in the vicinity. Alas, they weren't open.
Vlad Tepes, a.k.a. Vlad the Impaler, a.k.a. Count Dracula, was born in Sighisoara, another absolutely gorgeous medieval Transylvanian town about two hours by train from Brasov. I saw the home in which he was born, now a tacky tourist restaurant next to the clock tower on the highest point in town and near a beautiful square with a number of excellent little cafes. One of them, the International Café, served up one of the best grilled ham and cheese sandwiches I've had in months. You only need a couple of hours here and then it's back on the train to Brasov.
Bran Castle has a very tenuous connection to Dracula. Allegedly he attacked it at some point. There is no mention of Dracula on any of the literature you see during your self-guided tour, nor anywhere else in Bran.
Brasov-the Atomic ski bum van
But there are loads and loads of tacky Dracula paraphernalia at more than a couple of dozen stalls at the market below the castle and elsewhere in town. How strange that they've latched on to Dracula and I've seen much, much better castles. At least the admission was only about six bucks. Bran was cute and the 40 minute bus ride took me through some lovely countryside. It was worth doing. On my return to Brasov I stopped at Rasnov and hiked up the hill to see the fortress which was mildly interesting. At the very least I had a nice walk and saw lots of funny tourists from all over the world. The day cost me 30 lei or less than 15 dollars. An organized tour through the hostel, no guide and not including admissions would have been 70 lei, including a stop at one other town. I spent my last day hiking to the top of Brasov hill and hanging by, not from, the Brasov 'hollywood' sign and wandering around town.
This Kismit Dao Hostel was great if not a bit pricey, $20 a night, including breakfast and a free drink every day! It was located near Piata Unirii up the hill and near a fantastic restaurant, Casa Romaneasca where I enjoyed pork bone (no bone-like a little roast ham), beans and potatoes with a big beer for $15. So good I went back the next night. The hostel had a real ski lodge feel and a nice big living room where it was real easy to meet people. Every night several of us would sit around and watch bad comedies, except for the Big Lebowski. I never get tired of that film. I also ran into Rachel who I met in Turkey at the very social Saban in Olympos.
The weather made me feel at home in Edmonton. Sunny and bright in the morning and rainy at about the time the working stiffs get off work.
The people of Brasov and around the area were a tad abrasive. I had a delicious funghi and proscuito pizza-wood fired-and two beers at Pub Rossignol (Of course I'm gonna stop there.). When dude brought my bill he said, 'It doesn't include a service charge', to which I wish I had responded, 'I guess that's why you didn't include service'. Overall the locals are pretty much indifferent and not very smiley, and service is average. I'll take that over getting hassled as you pass by every other shop.
