To Chiang Rai and Laos

After a leisurely breakfast of Muesli, fruit and yoghurt, a pineapple shake and a delicious coffee I checked out of the guesthouse at 10, grabbed a truck-taxi ($1.30) over to the Arcade bus terminal and picked up the first available bus to Chiang Rai, where I could catch a bus to Chiang Khong--the border crossing to Laos.  This was easy.  I had to wait about an hour for my airconditioned first class coach that cost about 5 bucks for the two hour trip to Chiang Rai. 

The market at Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai is described by guide books as something along the lines of more liveable than visitable.  Hmmm.  Reminds me of somewhere.  It's actually a pretty cool little city.  Compact and friendly with a great market, friendly people and delicious food in more of the northern Thai style.  It was Saturday night and the big night market and public beer gardens were rocking.  Local Thai musical artists were taking to the stage.  It turned out to be an entertaining night out, even if on my own.  

Chiang Rai Mainstreet at night

Next day which I think was Sunday, it was off to Laos.  A rickety old bus, windows open and about a quarter full with locals would take me to the border in about an hour.  I hop off the bus in Chiang Khong and ask how far to the river.  Tuk-tuk drivers laugh and suggest maybe I should take ride with them at the fixed rate of 20 baht.  It's three kms.  Okay, maybe I'll take a tuk-tuk.  He drops me at Thailand immigration where I fill out the departure form and get an exit stamp in my passport.  Minutes later I'm on a longboat crossing the Mekong River into Laos. 

Huay Xai, Laos is a typical border town.  Nobody stays more than one night and only then, because they have to.  I had my visa already so getting in was a breeze.  (One advantage of paying too much for a visa in Bangkok.)  The town's central business area is located on the main road that runs parallel to the Mekong and is just up a short walk from immigration.  It is lined with a number of guesthouses that also offer travel agency services.  Strangely or maybe not, the bus terminal is located a few kms south of the town's centre on the main road.  This of course makes inquiring about departure times and destinations rather difficult--you must either pay a tuk-tuk about as much as a long distance bus fare to get there or walk god knows where, and no one seems to really know where it is and there are no schedules posted anywhere in town.  This of course then leaves you at the mercy of the many money-grubbing travel agents.  Oddly or maybe not, no buses or boats leave Huay Xai after about 10 in the morning.  You know what that means. 

The border

Let's summarize.  You can't get to the bus terminal to find out about bus times without spending a substantial sum on a tuk-tuk.  You must then inquire about travel arrangements at a travel agency.  The guesthouses own all of the travel agencies.  They only recommend the higher priced VIP minivans.  All buses, boats and whatever else leave at somewhere around 9:00 a.m. (Laos time).  You must then stay a night at one of the guesthouses who run the travel agencies who don't seem to know anything about ordinary buses either.  They only give you 5000 kip on 20 baht which is about 30% below the going rate.  Fuckers. 

So fine. I book at room at B.A.P. Guesthouse and utilize the expert travel advice that is offered by the affable lao, english and french speaking hostess who runs the place and makes you feel pretty good while robbing you blind.  Okay, it wasn't that bad.  I told her I was interested in going as far as Muang Sing in the north.  She convinced me to purchase a bus ticket right the way there through Luang Namtha, a place most other backpackers hit via the minivan.  I agree and pay an additional 200 baht (just about seven bucks) to go all the way to Muang Sing.  Next morning 10 of us pile into a Hyundai minivan designed to seat seven.  The road to Luang Namtha is winding but smooth.  Apart from having the driver fall asleep, the ride was uneventful but scenic.  When we arrive the driver proceeds to the ticket booth and purchases a ticket on the next bus to Muang Sing for me for 20,000 kip (just over two bucks.)  Hmmm.  Funny that.  I think I'm catching on. 

Good-bye Thailand

Mainstreet Huay Xai, Laos

The B.A.P. Guesthouse, Huay Xai

Sunset on Thailand over the Mekong

Sunset on the Mekong