If it´s a small Spanish car, it must be a SEAT!
Trip Start
Apr 27, 2008
1
23
27
Trip End
Jun 05, 2008
Granada,
Spain
Friday, May 30, 2008
Spanish highways are well-constructed and signed; thatīs a good thing. We are thankful for the infusion of money from the E.U. Today we got on the road in our great little red SEAT (pronounced see-ott) and headed southeast toward Granada. On the way, we stopped in Baeza for a 1:30 lunch reservation at Restaurante Juanito, a local favorite made obvious as the elegant dining room fills up with (of course) locals for the big meal of the day. The meal didnīt disappoint, the price matched the quality, and as we left, we viewed photos of all the famous people who have supped there before us: King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia; Pablo Casals, cellist; writers, film-makers and artists. We felt honored (and full). I don't think our photos are on the wall yet, however.
As we entered Granada, the challenges began: directions to our rental home werenīt easy to interpret
Generalife, Moorish Gardens
. Was it A-44 south to Motrin? Should we stay on the circunvaluacion? What the heck is a circunvaluacion anyhow? It was allll too confusing and nerves were beginning to fray! Add to that that 99% of Spanish cars are NOT automatic shift; and guess who hadn't driven a stick shift in decades? All of us! Granadan streets are very steep and narrow. Have I mentioned this ten times already? The car killed at the most inopportune of times as we wound our way up, up, up the steep hills. Oh, darn! (I think we actually said a naughtier word, but I can't print it.) Did you wear deodorant today, I hope? Spaniards don't use their horns often, but I believe we did hear a toot now and then. Finally, we pulled onto Cuesta de Aceitunos. We have arrived; we are thankful. We ate in and were thankful again. We found a kumquat tree in the backyard and rejoiced. This house isnīt centrally located so for the first time on this trip, we donīt feel we got to know a city very well.I mentioned that we were driving a SEAT, the car company which started as Fiat years ago and was purchased by Spain. Dick saw a display of old SEAT's in Santiago and became fascinated with the brand. Being an old (I told you he turned 65 a few days ago, right?) car guy, he did some research.
At any rate, Granada enjoys a glorious setting on a fertile plain overlooked by several hills and the majestic peaks of the Sierra Nevada mountains, which we visited on Saturday as long as we had a car. Las Alpujarras have been immortalized in many tomes including one by Gerald Brennan, a Brit, who went to these mountains post-World War I to recover and write. These were pre-road days, so when he wanted to visit Granada, he walked. It is "only" 30 miles or so, but still
Generalife, Muslim summer palace
. We visited several white-washed villages that seem to have fallen asleep in another time. Their claim today is lovely pottery and woven rugs, spectacular views south toward the Mediterranean, and precipitous climbs to reach them. Oh, and flat-roofed homes from the Berber days, which is where they dry their tomatoes and other fruits in the summer. It was a relaxing day.The previous day we had spent touring the Alhambra and the Generalife, the jewel of Spain and especially, of Granada, a Moorish fortress in Nasrid architecture and its gardens. Decoration was the main feature: stuccowork in low relief, some gilded; arches and capitals; ceramic tiles in geometric designs on walls and so much more. The gardens are exquisite; the water runs freely in fountains and troughs. Try to see it before it completely disintegrates, although it is being restored. It is well worth a trip to Spain to view this historical gem.
There was much about Granada that disappointed us, such as the plethora of grafitti covering every available wall and space, the ferral dogs, and the youth with too much time on their hands. However, we are sure that there is a lot to love; we just needed more time to find it.
Ciao, Dick and Sue
