Sevilla to Córdoba via train!
Trip Start
Apr 27, 2008
1
21
27
Trip End
Jun 05, 2008
Córdoba,
Spain
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Dear family and friends,
The southern part of Spain has slowed us down, not because it´s hot (the weather has been wonderfully cooperative most of the trip), but because of the culture. One could say that Spaniards take time to smell the roses and drink the wine (or coffee, or beer)! All day long, whenever they can. We try that, too. That is, in between visits to churches, cathedrals and museums.
Time to tour Córdoba! We wound our way around the old section with its whitewashed streets and houses, charming flower-filled patios and small squares embellished with wrought-iron gates to finally find the last remaining Jewish synagogue (today a museum) in Spain
Cordoba, la Mezquita (mosque)
. It is exquisitely preserved. Then a tour of a typical old Andalucian home. They are still finding relics and adding to their plethora of treasures. It is precious, historical and fascinating! Then a visit to a superb Sephardic museum (Sephardic = Spanish jew) including a special exhibit on women of letters. Córdoba was one of the last Muslim strongholds before they were finally ejected from Spain in 1492. One can see their influence in the architecture (mostly Moorish arches), the food, the history and, of course, in the Spanish language (words that begin with the prefix -al such as algebra). The Romans left their stamp (still visible are some bridges). One of the most exquisite jewels of Spain, the Mezquita, where Moors and Christians each built their own place to worship, one inside of the other, starting with an 8th century mosque with 11 aisles and marble pillars with two arches to add spaciousness and height can be visited here. The architects alternated red and white marble to such a effect as to be stunning! We learned that at one time there were 40,000 Muslims worshipping in this mosque! Doesn´t that blow your mind? When you walk these narrow streets, you wonder, where did they all live?
As we continued getting lost in the small streets, we happened on Bodega Guzmán for lunch
At one time 40,000 Muslims attended services
. Picture locals only, a cave-like structure, serving tapas and copas de vino! Authentic. Perfect. The owner wrote the bill of 33 euros on a paper napkin. Is that cute or what? The walls were covered with photos of bullfighters; other memorablia is behind glass--bullfighter's photos, news articles and, of course, their elegant matador outfits. I told you that they take their bullfighting seriously (still). Oh, and if you think you could be a matador, probably not. They seem to all have (had) small rear ends, svelt physiques and be on the short side. However, if this description fits you, you might have a chance! This isn't meant to insult you, dear reader.By the way, there has been only one American who turned bullfighter, a man named John Fulton, originally from Philadelphia. I was lucky enough to meet him when I was studying in Spain in 1992. He was no longer fighting bulls, just shooting it if I recall. At any rate, he was also an artist of reknown, and Dick and I own one of his incredible watercolors of Moors on horseback in Andalucia. Interestingly, John also adopted a Gypsy boy many years ago and featured him in some of his paintings. His eyes so dark and searching, his shock of black curly hair, his olive-colored skin, all so Andalucian, so Gypsy. I have a card with his picture, too, if you would like to see it. Well, as it turns out, John never really became a top-notch matador; but what an ambition. Curious what motivates people to do what they do, isn't it?
Ciao, Dick and Sue
