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  O´Cebreiro, Triacastela, Sarria, Spain
Friday, May 9, 2008

Galicia is magnificent!

There is definitely a different feel to Galicia--huge farmlands lush and green, divided by rock walls (no mortar), the path mostly steep down, down.  Follow the yellow arrrows and, in Galicia, the way markers (concrete with the kms. left to Santiago well marked).   There is never a rush.  Our hiking days continue their pattern:  A quick Spanish breakfast of toast, orange juice (usually fresh squeezed), and coffee; on the trail by 8:30, hike 20 K m.o.l.; second breakfast or first lunch, depending on the hour (always in a bar along the trail); a coffee or beer as we near our destination (another bar). 

Some more observations:

-The farmers in the field usually wear royal blue pants and shirt; the women, royal blue skirt and shirt, with an apron

Old church--but who attends?

.  All wear galoshes.  It is muddy!
-We are often stopped by cows being herded to the barn to be milked.  Or sheep to pasture by the farm dog.
-Today a farm woman came out and offered us freshly made crepes as we passed by!  We chatted and gave her 1 euro each.
-Many villagers wish us well.  It helps that we greet them in Spanish.
-Pilgrims hike in many different ways. Some have their packs transported for them daily via taxi.  They walk with a day pack.  Some have arranged at home (via travel agent) that each day they wonīt hike over 15 K; a taxi awaits them at that point to transport them to their destination where their backpacks await!
-Many pilgrims hurt (physically).  Perhaps they didnīt train before getting on the trail.  Maybe they have new boots.  Or, they arenīt in shape; or, their backpack is too heavy.  Maybe the trip isnīt for them, and they realize this after arriving in Spain.  Everyone has a different reason for hiking the Camino and either giving up, or completing their goal.  We are all on a different journey.
-The Spanish love their cured meats, and in many places we see it hanging from the ceiling of the bars and restaurants:  hams, bacon, chorizo, etc

Would you like a fresh crepe?

.
-There are some very old buildings in Galicia called pallozas which used to house farm families.  Today they are museums and we toured one.  In days of old, before roads were put through (and new building materials could be brought in), pallozas were very common--round with thatch roofs, dirt floors, and plenty of space to cure meats at the ceiling.  The parents had the only private room; the kids shared the common room; there was a separated-off room for the kitchen; and space for the animals adjacent.  No heat; no electricity; hardly any light. 

This is a very interesting trip.  Thanks for coming along.  We do hope this finds you all well.  Ciao,  Dick and Sue

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Herding the cows--get on Bossy!	Welcomed to Triacastela by a horse	Neighbors bar-hopping via horse!	Farms for sale--they tell the story
Huge outdoor tub; no machines here!

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