Naughty Nuns in Arequipa

  Arequipa, Peru
Wednesday, January 7, 2009

No bad dreams after two days of mummies in the desert and frozen mummies in Arequipa! But woke up to blue skies and noisy streets. Crossing the roads is a bit tricky but so far we have managed it. So for a bit of peace and quiet we made our way to the Monastery of Santa Catalina. Sheltered from the rest of Arequipa by high, thick stone walls it's a maze of streets and courtyards, and so pleasing to the eye with russet and azure painted walls and big pots of scarlet geraniums.

Santa Catalina geraniums

Santa Catalina

We hadn't had any breakfast so we hurried straight to the little cafe and sat in the most beautiful walled garden for a spot of breakfast. Lisa and I were fascinated by the Lonley Planet entry for the Monastery which told us that it was founded in 1580 by a rich widow who was very selective in choosing her nuns. They came from the best Spanish families and a large dowry had to be paid on entry.

A wealthy Nun´s beautiful cupboard

Painted walls in a nun´s cell

cupboard doors in a nun´s cell

These priviledged young women were doubtless disappointed to be entering religious service as many arrived with up to 4 servants, and made up for it by apparently inviting musicans in and having parties - generally enjoying the life they were accustomed to.

These carryings on went on for about three centuries until the Pope got wind of it and sent a strict Dominican nun to sort things out in 1871. The parties stopped and from then on the 450 or so people living behind the walls just had to get on with life as a nun. Today there are less than 40 nuns, who live in a new block , and the rest of the monastery is open to the public.
So that was what the guide book told us - information in the cloistered walls was carefully worded , but more or less said the same thing reading between the lines!

A street within the monastery walls

Courtyards in Santa Catalina

We wandered along the maze of streets, and around every corner there was a blaze of colour or a fountain. The washing area was amazing, with half terracotta pots each side of a central water course. We could just imagine the servants scrubbing the nun's habits and hanging them up to dry! The individual cells were spartan, but nearly all had an ajoining kitchen area with big ovens and the biggest cheese graters I've ever seen.

One of the en suite kitchens for a nun

Apparently Paul Gaugin's grandmother tried to enter the order, and stayed there 6 days but was refused eventually. There's a novel by MarionVargas Llosa set around her visit- so that's another one to put on my never ending reading list!



Yesterday when we wandering around looking for the alpaca company, we came around the walled corner of a cobbled street and zooming towards us was a strange sight! Several female Santas on the back of motorbikes provided the outriders for .. ......the Three Kings, trotting down the street on horses and dispensing sweeties to children (and to us) and musical accompaniment provided by the police band, all squashed into a sort of black maria.

Santas on motor bikes

The Three Kings

We raced down the street after them but they were going at quite a pace! Eventually they turned into the local hospital. Ah, of course , itīs the day for the Three Kings to arrive bearing gifts and an important part of Christmas here!



And today we booked a trek to Colca Canyon, went back to the hostel to pack our backpacks, just taking the bare essentials for three days. Had an early night as we leave for the Canyon ( a 5 hour bus ride) at 5.30am.