Mongolia Trip 2006

Mongolia Trip 2006.

Bridge crossing

Leaving work and getting to the Horses.

Left work onboard "M/V The World" in Hong Kong and went to spend two nights with my old friend from my days in Shanghai. After two days of great company, food and going out I headed home to Denmark and five days of catching up with family and friends, mail, bills, getting appropriate visas - time just flew before it was time to head back to Asia and the meeting point for my 3rd Mongolian adventure. In Beijing airport I meet Martin the Race doctor, Angie the race coordinator & organizer, Nicolas also one of the race organizers & runner and Jamie also a 3rd time runner. After having made the last telephone calls to the modern world and loved ones we boarded the flight for UB. Arriving in UB my suspicions that my Danish mobile phone provider did not have a roaming agreement with Mongolia Telecom - I am now out of touch and in the wild wild... east. After a great lunch in UB we headed back to the airport and of to Moron where we were meet by a Russian jeep (mix between a 4WD and an old fashion Volkswagen - the hippie kind from the late 60ties) and headed direction meeting point with our horses and horsemen.

Drinking water

After 5-6 hours of driving through the Mongolian steps and hills we stopped to spend the night on a beautiful forested hillside. Unpacked and set-up our tents, built a fire and had hot tea which was needed as once the sun set (22:30 / 10:30PM) the temperature dropped drastically like 10 degrees centigrade. Stood at fire and in all my warm gear and just enjoyed the fantastic colour display the Mongolian horizon had in store for us. Shared tent with Martin the Race doctor from the US, thank god I was super tired and jetlagged as he snored like a freight train.

Next morning we set off again into the magnificent nature and endless landscapes and after a couple of hours we arrive at this out post or gathering of wooden house around a medical facility and school where Nicolas and our driver recognize our horses but no horsemen. After having repacked to fit the trek and leaving the rest with the jeep we waited enjoying the warm evening sun. At 17:00 / 5PM Bat Baatar and Ton Baatar turn up out of nowhere in full gallop. I recognize them from last time and it is great to see these two grown men with child like spirits and love for life.

Geer

Time to meet our horses Bat points me to a milk chocolate brown horse with no name (here I'm thinking Neil Young) who looked a little uninterested and lazy however once saddled and me on him I knew different. What a fire cracker and Alfa male (gelding) absolute not a follower and nearly dam impossible to hold back if not in front position. Riding till close to sunset we set camp and settle down after the first day in the saddle and as always after not riding for several months you feel it in every limb especially your legs and back side but the best sleep ever in the name of fresh crisp clean air and physical activity. Next day we sleep in or at least till the merciless sun heated our tent till sauna temperature and you just want cold fresh air.... Zipp and in comes the beauty of the landscape covered in green and tall mountains as back drop, clear blue skies and a smiling sun radiating you with it's warm embrace.... Whow this place sure makes you feel special.

peek a boo

Off again over mountain passes with the Mongolian "oval" the sacred place on top of a pass where you must leave a small offering (can be anything from a stone to cigarettes or a small wood carving). We ride around three times clockwise as custom has it and leave out little token wishing for safe passage into the next valley.

Over the next two days through the land of blue skies, we (the runners) alternated between running and riding. The horses look pretty mystified to see us next to them and not riding but after a while they get conformable with this I guess nice break for them.

Later when we pass a Mongolian family where we bought a young sheep as we are running out of fresh food and while we set camp a little further Bat rode back to pick-up the by now slaughtered lamb and ready for pick-up. We have camped by a river and we make a true Mongolian BBQ with fresh meat on sticks over the fire what a treat stunningly beautiful especially was the cows, horses and yaks come down to drink while wild ducks and gees swim in the passing river. Again the sun gives us a performance of light and long shadows absolutely magnificent and impossible to describe.

Sun set by river camp

Shaman Biembadorch

Late Afternoon we ride into the Valley of Dathoor (not sure of spelling) where we find our jeep and the shaman Biembadorch (8th generation shaman) that Angie and Nicolas meet last year and to whom they have donated a Geer for the practice of Shamanism. As shamanism was illegal during 50 years of Russian and communist rule they had nearly succeeded in eliminating this tradition, practice and lifestyle. The objective of this geer is to create a gathering place for the Shaman to congregate and share practices keeping this tradition and lifestyle alive as it is so much more in contact with nature and spirit of the pure nomadic life of Mongolia and the Mongolian people.

Biembadorch is a super charismatic and impressive man not in size but in presence. Strange how you just can feel when a person has insight, balance and spiritual or mystical energy.

After having set camp next to the Shaman geer and had a bath in the little pool in the river we settle in for dinners and a chat with Biembadorch. He asks if we have any thing we want to ask the spirits and I ask him if my parents have found each other again. The ceremony will take place the following night and we agree that next day we should also go to the gate of the holly mountain that lies just behind our camp.

Next morning I escape Martin and our tent as he is snoring like a freight train, taking my sleeping bag I find refuge on the leeside of our jeep and catch some extra sleep before we head up to visit the gateway to the holly mountain. We arrive at the beginning of the forest where we find a holly site with small flags, blue scarves, stone piles and a small alter with milk offerings (milk is very important to the Mongolians), and Biembadorch preformed a small ceremony honouring the spirits. Later he shows us where his forefathers are laid to rest. Then he says that we can go on down a small path but he has to stay here. We arrive at a site where we find the remains of a shamans drum, stick and cloths which we later find out to be from another shaman and tradition has it that shaman should be careful in the presence of dead shaman personal tools. We all take a small nap before getting up at midnight for the ceremony. Unfortunately the news has been out and a couple of hobby anthropologists turn up with camera and tourist attitudes. As the point of giving the geer is to give the Mongolian shaman a place for them and not make a circus, the self invited tourist are explained the situation and asked to leave. However they are totally "bad taste" and they go over and speak to Biembadorch in his home as he is getting ready for the ceremony, anyway he invites them to speak with him the next day.

After having waited in the dark Biembadorch and his wife and two sons arrive carrying his drum and shaman dress and hat. We are asked to enter the geer and watch him get ready and dresses. Starting to hum after having been sitting in silence for 30 to 40 minutes his sons take off his booths and put on a pair of reindeer boots, a shall type coat with lots of trinkets and a big metal plate on his back (to protect shaman during trance from evil spirits). On his head they place a big hat with many strings hanging down covering the face. Biembadorch is now given his drum and stick and he starts singing and drumming. The songs are in an old magical language that only the initiated know. The drumming, dancing, signing and swaying continues interrupted by several spasm like reactions when the sprit(s) speak or enter. The whole séance lasted 4 ½ hours filled with awe and fascination for an age old tradition. When finally the shaman Biembadorch drops to the floor exhausted, his helpers slowly remove his magical cloak, boots and headdress, and obviously disoriented he asks that we talk again tomorrow as he is too weak and tired now .... It is 5:30 in the morning. We all head off to bed and sleep till early afternoon when Biembadorch comes and talks to us he tells me that the sprits that came to him could not find my parents but tells me to go to where they are laid to rest and honour them. Nicolas had asked if the land would see more animals and the old balance would remain intact which the spirits were happy to see that new and more people were thinking about.

It is so hard to write about all this as it all seemed so unreal and magical, the meeting with Biembadorch was a unique glimpse into the old ways and I am great full to having been part of it.

Trek to Toilog

It was now time to get to Toilog and the race. Our horsemen had gone ahead and we would take the jeep go to a small village for provisions and meet them on the steps. We set off and the uniqueness of driving in Mongolia sets in hopping and bopping, dust, hard turns to avoid stones and holes, constant speeding up and then full stop. We arrive at a big river where the crossing takes place on a wooden pram consisting of 20 or so tied together wooden logs and a wire spading across the river. After several tries the jeep makes onto the pram that is now partly underwater and our two Mongolian river men start pulling us across the river... it worked and we drive to out provisioning point where we buy sugar, tea, bread, jam, Kit Kat, potatoes, tobacco (for the horsemen), canned fish, etc. Just outside the village we meet Bat and Ton ready with our horses and we have a quick lunch and set off into pristine and vast green of Mongolian summer. We have to cross a dry valley which we galloped through and full blast and then trotted through a valley of fly hell, a big bog with lots of biting insects so the cure was constant trot and no stopping. The horses were all irritated and they just wanted to get out of this place. We held good speed and finally we went over the pass to the next valley which was free of the biting bastards. Next day we decided to train for the race so we all ran next to the horses who at first was wondering what is going on. We ran for a good 8 hours and I was totally dead which scared me ....

How am I going to do the race when after 8 hours I am totally burnt out? Slept like a log that night and to my surprise I felt good the next morning as we set of on the last bit before arriving in camp. As we crossed the last pass riding into the valley of Lake Toilog the horses could smell the lake witch means home to them and their alertness and eagerness changed completely. Having reached the lake front 12km from camp we had a snack lunch and set of again. My horse was so eager to go home that I said that I was not going to hold him back and off I went .... 12km of gallop at the speed set by the horse arriving 20 minutes before the rest of the troops. Great to be at camp have a hot shower and a sauna to scrub off the 7 days of very very cold and thus often very short baths on the trail. Having cleaned ourselves the rest of the evening consisted of dinner and sitting around the hot fire.

The next tree days in camp we meet all the other runners 37 in total and spent time getting to know each other, pre-race meetings and getting our gear ready (all runners must carry 1 ½ liter of water and a safety kit with compass, water purifying pills, etc). The night before the race we all went to bed early but I could not sleep but finally did.

Race day

3:15 AM a gentle knock on the geer door announcing that it is time. Felt like I had just fallen asleep. Then someone played the flute as a morning salute ... what a great sound ... got up dressed and headed up for a big breakfast. At 4:25 AM we a gathered at the start line ready for the start signal which was given at 4:30AM off we all went through the forest in the dark lit by 37 torches. I found that the best way was just lighting the runner in fronts shoes and just following. It worked apart form a couple of roots that I overlooked and stumbled but no damage up and on we go.

Finally after 30 min we hit the lake road and running is easier also the sun is now rising to greet us from the far side of the lake. What a colour display she had in store for us ... so beautiful and inspiring. Kevin a super cool Irish guy and I are running the same tempo so we stick together. Here comes the first hill and speed is reduced to a hard walk however sweat is dripping. We get over the pass and down in goes ... running aided by gravity ... great feeling Second hill comes and again have to give in to walking. Sara an English girl joins us. Down hill Kevin slows down due to his knee not feeling good. Sara and I blast down hill and head of on the home stretch of the 42km. Out of nowhere Kevin comes running at a very good speed... great that he caught up and now is continuing and full blast Sara and I decide not to follow as he is running the 42km and can afford to burn out on the last bit. We can see Kevin crossing the 42km as we are on the other side of camp on our way. We cross the 42km mark, had a hot soup and I changed into dry socks and shoes. Legs feel tight and with a full belly Sara and I decide to walk the next 12 km along the lake (the same bit I galloped back and this will also be the last 12 km to the finish line later). Getting a blister but ignoring it, we walk to the 12km and then slowly walk up the 3rd hill. We are both staying positive but pain, blister, and fatigue is setting in, we make a pact walk up - run down. On the big step with river crossings and stones rounded by years of rush floods as the snow melts. The distance just seems to be longer and longer finally we hit the 12 hour cut off and we still have time to spare (30 min). Great - we continue get to 76km mark (this is where I gave up due to cramps in 2001) Change socks and bust all my blisters ... my left foot has a big one right on the ball of the foot - not good. Anyway we get going again into the forest and probably the most beautiful part of the race... Running on a cliff with the lake to one side. The lake water is crystal clear and you can see the fish swimming some 10 -15 meters down. Amazing but stop and look - don't look while you run the trail is full of roots. We alternate between jogging and fast walking and at every clearing we think now we are at the 88km mark but no it was not this time..... finally it comes and as we both are exhausted and in no mood to talk or anything for that matter we both put on our headphones and hope that some music will get us thought the last 12km. The last 12 km are hell I am alternating from blister pain and then walking on the side of my foot getting a shin pin....god lord get us home soon please.

Dreaming of hot spaghetti and a warm bed we work our way through the 12km but time is running faster that we thought it is now 17 hours 45minuets since start and we can see camp in the far away distance Sara can not run and I head off alone wanting to make it in the 18hours. I choose Pantera (very angry young men to a very fast drum and guitar beat) on my ipod ... I am pushing with everything I got left .... Getting there I'll make .... Don't fall or you'll loose time you don't have.... I throw myself over the finish line at 18 hours to the dot... I made it ...not a fast time compared to the winner (12h45m) but I did what I set out to do the 100km in the nominated time of 18 hours. I now have a total euphoric energy burst and we can see Sara coming in ....I run out to meet her and in courage her to the finish .... she will be the first woman in the 100km finishing at 18h 07m .... phew off to the dinning room and get some hot food ... to my disappointment no spaghetti which I dreamt off anyway anything tastes good just as long as it is salty. Amazingly the last 100km runners come in at 3:30AM after a painstaking 23hours on the move.

Next day was a day of relaxing and reading my book in bed, legs sore even more so my blistered foot. That evening we had the race ceremony in style with awards, prizes and t-shirts I came in 8th for the men's 100km. Later the vodka and beers came out and did not take much before we were all dancing and jumping around.