Back from the northern mountains
Trip Start
Nov 2007
1
33
Trip End
Dec 2007
Masaya,
Nicaragua
Thursday, December 20, 2007
Hereīs a summary of our latest adventures:
Finca Esperanza Verde was one heck of a treck from Esteli, although i donīt think itīs more than 60 miles, it took us all (long, hot) day. first, we took a cab to the esteli bus station, then took a long bus over a slow rutted road to Matagalpa. The road is absolutely breathtaking as you head up into the mountains where īblack goldī (coffee) is king. The coffee is grown in the mountains at elevation,then brought down to huge industrial plots where it is laid out to dry. On the bus, plot of after plot of drying coffee passes on both sides.
From Matagalpa, we took another bus up to Yukul, which consisted of, as far as i could tell, a few pulperias (convenience stores) and a bunch of residences. Life here is very simple. The hills have been horribly deforested for coffee growth, so they donīt have proper big wood for building houses. Istead, the houses are made with small tree branches bundled and interlinked like lincoln logs, with mud filling in the gaps. A typical mud hut may be a few hundred square feet and contain a bed and a few hammocks, a īkitchenī with a fire for cooking. Typically, there were a few family animals like chickens, roosters and pigs, a dog and a few kids meandering around each house. At the time we past, the kids could be seen walking up the road with large bundles of wood balanced on their heads, returning with fire wood for dinner.
From Yukul, mel and i had to hike over 2 miles up a steep rocky path to the finca. With our heavy packs on we struggled up the road and were, as usual soaked in sweat and ready for a big dinner upon arrival.
The finca is a relaxing, picturesque coffee farm. Itīs won numerous eco-tourism awards and is incredible low impact. It grows shade grow coffee, uses solar cells for power, employs only locals and pays a fair wage. There are 4 hiking trials, a few cabins, and a lot of hammocks and rocking chairs for relaxing. Mel and i spent 4 days watching birds, and learning about the coffee traid. The food here is made from scratch and was amazing. One day we got to make our own corn tortillas and it really hit home how much work the cook did for us every day. We also roasted our own coffee over the fire stove and got to see how they picked and harvested the coffee. The most impactful moment for me was watching a young man sort the beans into 1st, 2nd and 3rd tier quality. To think that when i have premium coffee, EVERY SINGLE BEAN has been examined by some dude in one of these countries really struck me.
We got to see tons of cool birds too and we meandered past a sloth on one hike. We also met some nice Danish and Candian folks and spent a night chatting with a guy who was writing the next version of the moon guide wéve been using. At night, weīd just sit in the rocking chairs, stairing out over the mountan range, shrouded in clouds and watch the sun set. All in all it was a relaxing and refreshing.
Now, after another days travel, we are in masaya for some christmas shopping. See you soon!
