Day 15: night swim, day trip to artisan village
Trip Start
Nov 2007
1
22
33
Trip End
Dec 2007
Granada,
Nicaragua
Friday, November 30, 2007
When we got back, Louis, the reptile loving brit was esctatic about his latest find, curled around his left hand, a snake that he believes may be the first ever discoverd in Nicaragua. Earlier in the day he found a 'skunk like creature' that they also believe has not been identified in nica. In the morning, louis' wife, who like him, can usually be found holding a snake, offered to let me hold a 'false coral' snake, but i decline. this snake is much more energetic and fiester in than the tree boa.
Today, mel and i went on an excursion to san juan del oriente, an artisan town, where they produce intricate colorful pottery. We watched an artisan make a pot and even had a chance to try our hand at it (i declined b/c i didn't want to get muddy on a travel day). I wanted to buy some stuff for christmas gifts, but its too much to lug around. maybe we'll get to return here... but hopefully in a better vehicle! Our van seated 6, but we had 9 in it. The back doors didn't seem well attached and poor mel was pressed up against them. She had to ballast herself against me for fear of flying right out the back!
After that, we returned to proyecto and caught that last bus to Masaya, where we caught a transfer to granada. Tonight we're back in granada because tomorrow we've decided to take a tourist van to Leon.
The bus system here is worth some description. the buses appear to be old decomissioned 'elementary school style' buses from the us and canada. Our bus had a Jesus fish and playboy sticker above the driver's seat. :) There is a driver and an assitant on each bus. The assistant hangs out the front entrance of the bus. There are very few 'demarkated stops'. People just stand along the side of the road. As the bus passes, the assistant waves his arm up and down out the bus. If you want that bus, you simply signal back by waving your hand and flagging it down. Periodically, the assistant goes through the bus taking money. It cost Mel and I $1 each to get from leguna to masaya to granada, about 30 miles or less round trip. The buses are usually packed, most standing room filled, which sucks since there is no A/C.
When you want to stop, you tell the driver where to stop and he stops right were you need. It's convenient but slow since people create stops whereever they want. After our first trip we arrived at the Masaya bus station. At first it looks chaotic. Buses parked, ad hoc throughout a bustling dirt covered parking lot the size of a city block. People scurring in all directions, buses honking relentlessly trying to clear enough space to pull out of the lot. There is no schedule or info center. We ask where the granada bus is and how much it costs and have no problem finding it.
As our bus pulls out, a few vendors sneak on board (and off) for one last pass through trying to sell us cookies or drinks. The ride was smooth and the people as always, amazingly nice. On our trip from the laguna, we sat behind the family that owns a restaurant where mel and i stopped yesterday afternoon for a snack. I think we were the only people i ever saw eat at the restaurant. We felt bad for the poor young man that came up and tried to sell us on a meal every time we walked down the road. So we tried it out. The food was nice, the roosters running around the table were annoying but the dogs and cat that crowed around for scraps were pretty damn cute. Anyhow, the family was behind us on the bus and the server gave melissa a photo of the restaurant to advertise to our friends. The photo looks like it's 10 years old and has been through a war. What a cool dude.
Our bus to granada was packed with families because tonight was a huge festival. I haven't looked it up yet, but from what i can gather it is a celebration of the virgin mary. A float that illustrates the mary and jesus is processed through the streets from one church to another. Over the next few weeks it visits a bunch of churches in the city. It's a huge affair. The whole town seemed to be out tonight, the streets jam packed like 4th of July in the states. all to catch a 30 second glimpse of one float. Then the everyone dispersed. A little anti-climactic, but I really like just hanging out with the Nicas. They are an incredibly jovial people. Laughing, playing, flirting and just making the best of things. We caught the procession after dinner while walking back to our hotel.
ok, that's all for now. later, steve and mel.
