Here is the stuff stuck in limbo- More from Hanoi
Trip Start
Nov 05, 2008
1
11
14
Trip End
Nov 30, 2008
Siem Reap,
Cambodia
Sunday, November 23, 2008
It's not often that one gets to use the word "cacophony", but I don't think that I've ever been anywhere else in this world where the word is more appropriate. There are bikes, motorbikes, pedi-cabs, taxi cabs, busses, private cars and pedestrians and they are all honking their horns or screeching on their brakes. It was so noisy to us that we could barely think. And crossing the street was a life-threatening experience! No one looks, no one yields,and no one stops. After a while we just got into the rythym, closed our eyes and stepped off the curb hoping for the best. So far so good. The helmet law is "flexible" if it exists at all. Some people wear actual helmets but most wear counterfeit versions in fake Burberry plaid or Louis Vuitton designs or polo helmets painted pink or mint green for the women. Each motorbike has at least 2 persons; usually an adult and an infant or child (helmetless). We were terrified that we would have to try to catch a flying baby, but luckily we were not called upon for that task. Our driver, Hung, told us that by the end of this month there would be a law in place that required people to wear REAL safety helmets so no more pots, pans or rice cookers would be allowed. I will be interested to see if it really makes a difference. Also, the police are quite "flexible" in carrying out the laws - Hung told us that if you have some ready cash to give the cop for his trouble you can usually go on your way unless you've committed something really horrendous or there were multiple witnesses. Steven and I took no chances; we behaved ourselves for once.
Another thing that was unbelievable about Hanoi is that electrical lines are everywhere. They hang on buildings like draperies and are low over the streets. Even the electricity in our hotel was a little scary; each time we plugged something in (like a shaver, the computer, the hairdryer, etc) we could literally hear the electricity coming through the wires. It was a little disconcerting. We always knew the escape route in case of a fire.
On our walkies we visited some book shops and of course, for me, a silk shop. It was a tiny little shop that was located in the owners' living area behind a small storefront. Three generations were working that day and between Vietnamese (thank you, Ngoc) and French we were able to make ourselves understood and negotiate for what I wanted. Every day that we were in Hanoi we passed by their shop and exchanged pleasantries although we didn't buy anything more from them. Of course we were tired after all that negotiating so we had to let Bobby Chinn's place do business without us and decided to grab a quick bite in our hotel bar/café. We met two of the sweetest, smartest and most adorable young women there who became our "pets" and we theirs for the duration of our stay. They are in their early 20's and learning English and eager to ask all about America. They are Bic and Chi and we promised to write or email them. Ngoc, thanks again for the M & M hint - they were crazy about them!
The next day we met our guide and driver at 7:45 AM to tour Hanoi. The first stop was Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, where he still lies in state after 40 years. We were lucky that we got to go in as his body is re-embalmed every October/November so he is not usually in residence until December. Hung said that they had re-opened two days before our arrival so we needed to get there early in the morning as lines are long and it closes at 10:30 AM. The next stop was the Ho Chi Minh Museum which was very well presented and quite beautiful; much more pleasing architecture than the Mausoleum. We also saw the Presidential Palace, the house where Ho Chi Minh really lived (rather than the palace) and the tiny stilt house where he lived out his final days. We saw the first university built in Vietnam and then had a wonderful Vietnamese lunch in a second floor restaurant. After lunch we went to the "Hanoi Hilton", the P.O.W. prison that we're all familiar with from the Vietnam War. There is a small portion of it left as most of it was destroyed after the war to make way for redevelopment. It is a chilling place and made me think of the silver P.O.W. bracelets that Steven and I wore for so many years until we heard the fates of "our" prisoners. Next was the oldest Temple in Vietnam and a little walk around and then we each rode in a pedi-cab or cyclo around the city. Imagine two skinny little men wearing tattered clothes and flip flops pedaling our lazy butts around! Yikes! At first it was a bit frightening because we were right in the midst of the chaos of traffic, but after a while it just seemed like that was the way to go. Steven was in charge of the camera in his cyclo but I got to "converse" some with my driver. He also was fond of the M & M candies. Still alive we met up with Hung and had some HAI BOI, which is homemade beer that is sold on the street for about .15 a glass - it was delicious - COLD and crisp and even though I had read that in order to fill your glass the server has to siphon it out of the tank it's brewed in....... I continued with my "when in Hanoi do as the Hanoins do" philosophy. I know that my dear friend Gwynn is shuddering as she reads this. Just remember, Gwynn, I'm taking doxyclycline as an antimalarial so all will be well. Refreshed once again we headed for the water puppet theatre. This a tradition that is thousands of years old in Vietnam. The puppeteers stand waist deep in water behind a curtain and operate the puppets so that they portray the lives of the Vietnamese people. There are fishermen trying to catch jumping fish, rice farmers working their oxen, water and fire spewing dragons and processions of royalty. All of this is contolled under the water. It is amazing to me that the strings and poles and all don't get tied up in a miserable mess. The show was just fascinating and accompanied by traditional Vietnamese musicians. It was a wonderful way to end a wonderful day. Tomorrow we go to the coast to Halong Bay.
Steve here. Breaking News!! Ginger just informed me that just because we are no longer in the US it makes no difference in my standing. She is still in charge "because her in-charge license is international." Thank God I now know that.
We visited Halong Bay this morning. It is a large body of water that empties into the Bay of Tonkin and the South China Sea. It is on the UNESCO list of World Geography because of the limestone peaks that rise out of the water. There are hundreds of these peaks and many have shapes that have led to many superstitions; Bears, Chickens, etc. We were lucky enough to have rented a two-story boat all to ourselves complete with Captain, Cook and ships hand. We had been told that we would have a"little lunch" on board so were expecting a sandwich and a beer. Instead we got plates full of Vietnamese specialties and because we are Americans we got French fries as well. Also at Halong Bay you can go into a cave that wasn't discovered until 1993. It is amazing how large it is and that it was just recently discovered. We will soon be downloading photos of both the cave and the bay.
In spite of the beauty of the area the best part for me was the car ride to Halong Bay (we will discuss the ride back later). On the ride up we travelled for three hours. In that three hours we saw thousands of acres of rice paddies. It had already been harvested at this time of the year and the new crop won't be planted till January. They have three crops per year in the Hanoi area and four in the south. The farmers were fattening up ducks in the paddies. The ducks eat the remaining rice stalks in the fields. We also saw cattle and water buffalo in the fields eating. A water buffalo looks basically like a city bus on steroids. They seem to have a desire for mud because they are always covered with it.
Vietnam is the second leading exporter of rice in the world behind Thailand. The quality of Thai rice is considered the best in the world but Vietnamese is still of good quality. The export of rice pays for numerous imports into Vietnam; it also puts Vietnam in a position above other developing nations because it can feed itself.
We also saw corn and other crops growing along the way to the Bay. About every 10 miles there was a small town. Every town had its own shops and markets. It becomes somewhat like déjà vu because each town covers the basics for its residents.
We also saw industry sprouting up close to both Halong Bay and Hanoi. Larger buildings with more employees close to the cities and smaller companies and investments in the small towns. The industry is still basic but it is new and growing quickly.
Now let's talk about the death drive from Halong bay to Hanoi. To put it bluntly the Vietnamese drive horribly. But when you add to that the factories and high schools were getting out and dark coming early this time of year you have the makings of Halloween 7. Ginger and I had gotten used to traffic and the disregard for traffic laws but we were not quite ready for the lack of visibility. On the same highways you have bicycles, homemade farm equipment, motorbikes, cars, trucks, buses and tractor trailers. When you add these all together it was horrifying. Everyone passes the bicycles and motorbikes, the cars pass the trucks and tractor trailers and the buses pass everyone. And sometimes this is all happening simultaneously. When you add darkness and a definite lack of working lights on most vehicles it is just too stressful for words. Ginger and I promised if we made it back alive we would never travel outside a city at night again in Vietnam. We did and we haven't.
We finally got back to our hotel and went straight to the lounge for a Tiger Beer and a hamburger with French fries to relieve the stress. Luckily our waitress friends Chi and Bic took good care of us. We ate, drank and went to bed to try to wake up from the driving nightmare.
