Thimpu & the coronation ceremonies, part 2
Trip Start
Oct 27, 2008
1
12
13
Trip End
Nov 21, 2008
Thimphu,
Bhutan
Saturday, November 8, 2008
We ran smack into the long, long lineup for the stadium also immediately after exiting the hotel. The line stretched for dozens of blocks and we were not as early or well placed to get in as we had anticipated. Thankfully (and shamefully), we were escorted to the front of the line where we were inserted - basically cutting in front of thousands of people who had assembled long before we arrived.
Casting aside any notion that I should step out of line and join the back of the queue, I surged ahead with the crowd and passed through the metal detector enroute to the stadium entrance. Unfortunately, we had not heard that cameras were not allowed, so we had to offload our camera equipment to Sonam, our guide, who offered to run them back to the hotel and re-join us at the stadium once he got back. (This would be his second line-cut of the day, making mine seem less bad....I think!!)
The second queue to enter the staduim gate was really just a crush of bodies pressed up against an iron gate, about sixty to eighty people deep. It was truly a mad crush of people, and we were in the thick of it....a couple of tall, white tourists anongst hundreds of locals. I think the locals found our local garb a little amusing, but in a complimentary way. More than one lent an effort to straightening my scarf (which I was required to wear for this event), of puffing up the bustle in the back.
Finally, the gates to the stadium swung open, and the crowds surged forward uncontrollably. In this mad crush, women and kids were crushed (one literally, as we found out later), and it was impossible to do anything but allow yourself to get pushed forward with the current. Pretty crazy stuff, I had never experienced this before - something like you'd see at a soccer game or something, but it is very unnerving.
Eventually, I was able to fight the current and get over to the left side of the crowd, and get solid footing. I had lost Kitty and Sonam in the melee, and so I found a vantage point to spot them. It took a few minutes, but we were able to reunite (thanks to the fact that we stood somewhat taller than the locals). Given that we were tourists, the stadium ushers pulled us aside from the crowds and escorted us to a section reserved for tourists, which was very comfortable and having a great view of the field and the royal stands.
We spent about 4 hours in the stadium, watching the military processions and marching band, the children's dance routine and a couple of colourful, spectacular dances by groups of monks, including the amazing dance of the black hats - quite something, and a must-see for the amazing moves and beautiful outfits.
With a deep sunburn setting in (at least on one side of my face - and my knees (the Goa did not cover far enough to protect my knees from the sun), and having seen the king, we elected to leave the stadium behind, with locals quickly filling our seats to watch the remaining events which would continue well into the evening.
After a quick lunch, we set out around town to visit some local landmarks, including a chorten with some lovely prayer wheels. We did a little post card shopping and after taking a much needed break at the hotel, headed out for dinner and drinks at a happening little place called Zone. A must-visit for a Yak burger and fries!
We hit a local sweets shop on the way back to the hotel, and having picked up some strange sesame ball candies (somewhat like sesame snaps we would find at home - yum!), it was again lights. out. A busy day of sights and sounds.....and more than enough to tire one out!!
