The Island of Mljet

Trip Start Jun 06, 2008
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Trip End Jun 20, 2008


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Flag of Croatia  ,
Tuesday, June 10, 2008

The huge ferry swung into the bay and the bow door swung down like a drawbridge. Out popped one bicycle with me on it. I was now on the national park island of Mljet. On arriving at its eastern village Pomenac, three of hours of hilly riding later I spoke to the diving school owner Mario. His attractive blurb on sunken german gunboats and roman cargo ships had been a major reason for coming here. "nope" he said with an italian sounding accent "I need-a two more-a people to make the diving worthwhile-a". And at that point, to coin a nautical phrase, I realised my plans might just be "scuppered". Feverishly I scuttled along the very small stretch of rocky beach talking to the few people there who looked vaguely sporty in an attempt to drum up the necessary business. Alas, it was not to be, but instead I found myself chatting to two lovely irish girls, plus a girl from Bosnia with the most brown eyes I think I have ever seen. A few hours later we were knocking back the local vino and then somehow found ourselves partying in an elderly german couples boat, singing Irish songs ferry at Mljet
ferry at Mljet
 . This was until girl with lovely eyes (name withheld for reputational reasons) announced she urgently needed to go and throw up, so we decided to call it a night. The germans thanked the good Lord that they had got us off their boat. My liver thanked me for its unexpected deliverance...

Spending the day pottering around the trails on the bike I realise the island is simply stunning and something quite special. I am surrounded by water and other islands (between each tiny boats bob along) on one side, and high hills on the other. Yellow butterfiels seem to dizzyly flit everyhwere, almost crashing into my moving spokes and then flitting away at the last minute. Very large metallic looking bugs, as hard as macadamia nuts keep bumping into me, but their shells protect them from any serious harm. They are so nosy I have to repeatedly flick them away, but they always seem to survive the hardest swats. Cats are everywhere in the village, mangy begging things that you want to nevertheless stroke but realise you will probably catch some horrible skin disease if you do!

I stay in a large clean and cheap double room above a restaurant with sea views on two sides for 25 pounds per night. The owner Ivor is friendly and gives me free wine which tastes like the home made stuff my dad used to make from next doors rose petals when I was a boy. It is sweet and strong and tastes super. I tuck into a juicy sea bass swimming in garlic and served with wads of spinach. Ivor advises me to come back but not in July or August. He explains the the idillic quiet island I am seeing today is transformed overnight in crowded hideous place. "Come back in September" he suggests. And maybe I just will...
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