Day 4 Laon to Reims
Trip Start
Apr 02, 2008
1
6
47
Trip End
Jul 20, 2008
Reims,
France
Friday, April 4, 2008
Distance: 80km
Best bit: empty roads, sunshine, and feisty hills south of Laon
Worst bit: devil lorries and Reims in general
A short day riding. Lazy morning in Laon, did not get up until 8am!. Returned map borrowed from hotel owner and posted helmet which i never wear back to the uk. Hotel owner gave tips on route to follow back roads through hills onto road Chemin des Dames. Scene of big battle. Fantastic tip as zero traffic. Enthused by sense of history I spotted new fangled museum perched with super views over valley, including snazzy looking terrace cafe, called La Musee du Caverne Du Dragone. It was about noon as I entered and the place seemed deserted. Eventually a lady of indeterminate age with a lop sided bob appeared
lake south of Laon
. I asked to see the booty to be told I couldnt view the museums historic caverns without a guide. Despite the lack of any visitors there would be a three hour wait. My eyes wandered over to the modern but empty cafe with the views, which now was producing a tantalising whiff of fresh coffee. She read my mind. " Ze restaurant, monsieur, iz closed for lunch!" she said firmy with the crossing of the arms and a glare through now slitted eyes. I saw her temparament much matched that of the museum's name and decided to cut my losses.Perhaps because Laon has been so super, I never toook to Reims. I cycled seemingly in circles for ever trying to find a way into Reims which was a tangle of factories and thundering lorries. The cathedral was impressive from outside, and there was a superb Roman triumphal arch to Mars, but the rest of the city seemed tired and crass. The lady in the information place was decidedly meagre with her information, and it took some effort to coax a hotel name from her that would take the bike. Every bar in the pedestrian district had the same naff pop/rap music, blaring from speakers on the lampposts. I went into a bar in a back street and chatted to the locals but the most interesting thing about it was a plastic singing goat in shades and leathers, where you pressed a button and it danced to Eurotrash. The one potentially super place, the Veuve Clicquot House, was tantlising out of reach. With entry by appointment only I didnt want to hang around in this depressing town until one was available. This was all a good incentive to get up early the next day.
(route bit: Laon, D967, Bruyeres, Chamouille, Cerny, D18 Chemin des Dames, Ferme d Huitebise, D18 Beauvrieux, D22 Cormicy, Hermonville, merfy, Maco, Champigny, Reims)
Comments
An old Goat
It's a pity about Reims. Though the goat sounds like a scream!
Cx