Ups and Downs

Trip Start Sep 20, 2008

Trip End Sep 2009

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Where I stayed

Posada Vargas

Posada Colorada, Playa Colorada

(Puerto La Cruz hotels)

Flag of Venezuela Puerto La Cruz, Northeast Venezuela, Venezuela
Monday, October 6, 2008

We arrived! Been a bit of a up and down start to the trip to put it mildly. First things first, the flight (Air Europa), one of the budget airlines to Caracas was far better than we had ever dared hope, with inflight meals, films and leg room! The only complaint was of the other passengers though guess this can´t be helped... After landing and a brief argument with passport control on our [lack of address] we had the inevitable nail biting wait for baggage. After half hr or so one arrived, the other taking another 45mins - Caro´s of course!

Our first helpful Venezuelian gave us our first impression we were not in for the budget life we had hoped for, with flights for Los Roques around 4 times the amount we had thought. Quickly abandoning that idea (we had really only wanted it for some beach time and for a scuba course which we can do in Colombia for a fraction of the price), we decided that staying in the airport was also not as appealing and got a (possibly overpriced) taxi to a nearby hostel - we still hadn´t quite woken up to the exchange rate. The people at the posada (Posada Vargas, Maiquetia) were incredibly helpful and seemed to be doing everything they could to sort us out for the next leg of our trip- phoning uncles that were owners of boats and all sorts

First glimpse of paradise

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Next day we got up to make headway to a nearby(ish) beach town for some chill time, and discovered that no banks were accepting cards, and no companies would accept card payments. Faced with a taxi driver that needed paying and only 10 english pounds we resorted to staying at the airport to plan to get money. Money was changed and spent on phone calls to sort out the cards and with just 5 Bolivares left (about a pound), we were told, "yeah, its been happening a lot, just keep trying!". Little bit frustrating, little bit worrying! Anyway time for an upside, and the banks eventually let us draw money (we started at 9 in the morning, didn´t leave the airport til around 4pm). Took a por puesto (small bus) to Caracas, with more decent venezuelans arguing the best way to get to the next stop - Puerto La Cruz. After leaving the bus met an American guy Kevin who was going in the same direction, so spent the trip chatting and exchanging money problems with him. Arrived in Puerto La Cruz around 11pm desperate for a night sleep, while the city seemed desperate for our money. Taxi overcharged by 3times the amount, and the posada was also 20Bolivares more than normal. Welcome to Venezuela!!

Waking up in the morning we were welcomed by another of the traditions in South America - regular turning off of water. For the whole city. Great. Apparently this is to show citizens how valuable the water is, and to promote the conservation, and very good idea and one I appreciate, however it was a little bit of a shock to the system, and we are not citizens who have the facilities to store water

road to posada

. Explored a little of Puerto La Cruz, enough to decide that we were happy to move on as soon as possible. We had more problems with money, and in sorting out next moves made a kind of base camp in a cafe. Kevin wandered off to find some new friends that might put us up for free for a night or 2, while Caro got chatting to the owners of a cafe for news of some cheaper posadas. Both came back with results, Kevin having secured a nights stay, and Caro having arranged a meeting for the next day with an owner of a posada in one of the nearby beach towns. With a plan coming together the three of us spent the night with a kebab and some beers chatting and generally feeling properly relaxed for the first time since we arrived.

Next day - water back on! and we met up with Andreina. She offered us a spot to camp with use of kitchen and bathroom facilities for a very reasonable price in Playa Colorada. Got a por puesto for a 45minute journey with our bags on our laps and very uncomfortable, however were treated to some stunning glimpses of what we were to expect of the caribean coast. Nearly melted in the heat as we were shown to the posada by a venezuelan ´guide´- "Oi, Gringos, quieren una posada?". Andreina was not around so Carolina, housekeeper showed us the basics, though apparently there was again no water. At least we were experienced by now, and in terms of bathroom facilities we were told that there was plenty of water in the sea.... Set up the tent for the first time (!) and headed straight to the beach for an ice cold beer and to watch the sun go down

Caro

. Seemed to good to be true, so time for the next down. On noticing and appreciating the variety of wildlife around we spotted a bright yellow/green spider crawling up my leg, of course had to get a pic of this. So with full zoom, and joking how we should be quick before it bites, we go to take the photo, upon which the spider jumped on to the lens, appearing huge on the screen, causing the camera to be flung halfway across the beach. Needless to say the camera did not survive. Hence a slight lack of pictures at the moment - especially given our normal excess of photos. A little subdued returned to the posada to teach the kids chess, before turning in early.

If we were melting on arrival, we were absolutely cooked by the time the sun was coming up in the morning. Headed down to the beach well before 9am and spent the entire day doing nothing. Bliss. The beach was just beyond words - everything you see in books of a coast line was here, and add into that the life and culture of the people and the constant playing of salsa behind you and its easy to see why we needed nothing else to keep us entertained. Snacked on empanadas (like cornish pasties but made with a kind of cornflour and stuffed with cheese or fresh fish). The food was finally a little cheaper but still far too expensive for us. A main meal would start at around 35BsF (just under 10pounds and almost the same as we were paying for a night at the posada) well outside of our planned budget. This wasn´t just a coast thing either, it seems that food is just incredibly expensive throughout the country. The next day was spent the same but with the added ingredient of storms and a lot of rain. The night was spent with Andreina discussing our options for the next part of the trip - Angel Falls. They actually run a tour company as well ´Vacanzes in Venezuela´ or something similar, which didn´t cover the falls, so she spent a long time talking to contacts to sort us out an all inclusive package. As if that wasn´t enough we were presented with a homemade Sopa de Verduras - vegetable soup with some beers on the side, and a home made picante (spice chili) sauce. Still have a hole in my tounge from testing that. We owe her a lot of thanks and gratitude for everything she did for us!

Next stop Canaima and Salto Angel... hope your all well and hasta luego!