Lost in the Lost City
Trip Start
Sep 20, 2008
1
9
29
Trip End
Sep 2009
Ciudad Perdida,
Colombia
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Our adventure starts in Santa Marta outside Turcol waiting for the rest of the group (an english girl and a spanish couple), once arrived we were informed that the Chiva (like a party bus) was not working today, so we had a pretty beat-up jeep instead. With the 5 of us packed into the back, knees in faces, we set off for our 2 and half hr trip to Mamey. Within half hr we are stopped by the police about something - probably looking for a bribe(!), but we let them get on with it while we fought for air and space. Finally got going, and stopped after another hour for a quick loo break, where they told us only another hr to arrive. What they didnt tell us (or what we didnt understand) was that this was to be where we would begin to appreciate the jeep to all its 4x4 qualities.
Stuck Jeep
The road was non-exisistent, not just for lack of tarmac, but also simply it had fallen away over the cliff and several times it seemed the car would follow. Eventually/remarkably arrived at Mamey, having only got stuck once, and got some sandwiches for lunch. If this was to prepare us for what lay ahead it wasnt enough. The walk started easy enough, with a walk through the rest of Mamey, a small town inhabited by campesinos (farmers). Our guide (Jhon), told us that over the past few years the cut back on the cocaine market has meant most of them now live without jobs and in extreme poverty. A little sad, but interesting insight to the other side of the black market. Leaving the town, and the trek picked up a little, trees appearing, long lines of huge leaf cutter ants crossing the the path, and the first sights of the River Buritaca we would follow almost the whole way. The weather was at peak temperature, and we had almost melted before even beginning, so were very relieved to be offered the chance of swimming in a natural ´piscina´ formed by a small waterfall. After bathing in beautiful surroundings and with hundreds of nibbling fish we felt suitably refreshed to start the 'subiendo' - a word we would come to fear, as this was non-stop extreme going up, slipping in muddy paths in the still unforgiving sun for over an hour. Along the way we quiz the guide, looking for encouragement or at least something interesting to learn to take the mind of what we had in front
Ants
. He told us instead about some swedish guy that had died right here a few years back!! Eventually reached the top where we were rewarded with pineapple refreshments, and a view over the valley we had just climbed. The strange thing was that the view was very similar to what we had left back in England, with rolling valleys, full of grasses and cows, the only difference being the mountain backdrop and of course the sweltering heat!! Already tired, they promised us another 1/2 hr of flat, followed by an hour going back down all the up we had just done. Here we passed various more campesinos with herds of cows and horses, adding to the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere. After what seemed like days of walking, we arrived at the campsite just before the rains started. This was a very similar kind of place as we had stayed in Angel falls, though here there was also a resident family that provided the food etc. There was even some electricity and a shower - though with the river flowing right outside, and another natural piscina 5mins walk away this went a little unused. Food was basic but tasty (though i think given the hunger and exhaustion it could have been anything), and sleeping accommodation limited to hammocks.
Second night in a hammock passed roughly as slowly and uncomfortably as the first, and we didnt really need waking up in the morning. We had opted last night to do a little 'extra curricular' activity, whereby one of the campesinos took us for a short trek to a small tented area, that served as a laboratory for the production of cocaine
Ants
. Our 'technician' showed everything from stamping the leaves, adding the gasoline, adding acid, draining everything, adding iodine, white spirit and baking soda, and finally cooking it in the sun. He offered us a taste of the final product but having seen the ingredients we wimped out. Added into this he told us all about the prices he gets, that he owns a number of much bigger plantations in the area, and essentially a small insight into the life of a coca grower. All in all fascinating, but enough to put us off trying it!!Headed back to the campsite for a short breakfast before the days hiking started again. More subiendo, more going down, taking us past small waterfalls, through more jungle-looking scenery than we had encountered yesterday. The trip was broken up today, with a short break in an Indigineous village, full of mud huts, straw rooves, and a small family. The way of life is so simple, and so basic, houses with the fire in the middle to dry the roof from the rain, seperate huts for men and women, larger temples huts; it all felt as if the long walk, had been back through time as well. And what was really weird is to think, that this is how they live, its not just a display for tourists. From here we began to encounter more of the people on their way to and from Mamey, with giant bags of fruit and a following of pigs, cows and the kids hiding from the cameras.
After 5 hours of hiking, made it to the second camp, as basic as the first, but this time with optional bunkbeds which all of us gladly took advantage of
Cacao (chocolate plant)
. Within 10mins of arriving - not even time to find the nearby piscina- the rain started and quickly turned into a full on jungle-esque downpour. Still, the weather was still hot, and we were so drenched in sweat, figured that even this couldn´t get us much wetter, so braved the rains and headed down to the river to cool off. After nearly being swept away by the current, returned to camp for coffee, siesta and the worst Ludo game ever (this version taught by a kid, who told us there were no rules, and still proceeded to attempt to cheat). Once he had left us in peace, and while waiting for dinner to be served, a group of the local kids dragged us along with great excitement to show us a giant frog about the size of a small chicken, that had turned up to escape the rising and raging river. Took the obligatory photos, and they all showed lots of interest in the camera. Beds were welcoming, and we got an early and relatively good nights sleep in preparation for the next day.Day 3, we had been warned would be a dangerous start, with walks along sheer cliff, slippery rocks, and with the river still wide and powerful from last nights rain. This followed by a total of 8 river crossings. We had already been happily jumping streams etc every day, but now we would be getting properly wet. The start continued as promised, very scary at times, and of course no signs of any safety lines in sight, apart from the oustretched hand of the guide. Arriving at the first river crossing, we prepared to get wet as the guides took across all the luggage first
La piscina
. The river was still very wide and deep here, with a strong current, and it didnt look easy at all. Looking on with worried faces, the guides pointed up to the sky, where a couple of hundred metres away suspended on a cable was an empty metal cage. We would not be walking this, but instead be suspended 50metres in the air, by a couple of strategically placed steel bars. Terrified but kind of excited we got in, and one by one are pulled across, with the river still roaring below. Much better than a day at Thorpe Park!Unfortunately the other river crossings wouldn't be nearly as fun easy or dry, with each one we are immersed to our waists in fast-flowing river water. Though the current and the feeling that it would wash you all the way back to Mamey with your first misplaced foot was not the worst thing. The fact that the mosquito repellent was not water resistant meant that between crossings we would be bitten until you would have thought there was no more room for bites. The river crossings mixed with the bad nights sleeping, and long walking meant that we were all pretty much walking on the adrenaline of almost being there, and as the final crosing was complete, and directly ahead of us is a long line of steps, the excitement grows and the dramatic change in scenery carried us out of the water and onto the city itself. Not that this was any easier. The steps are steep, wet, slimey, and go on and on and on and on seemingly until they reach the sky. Arriving at the top of this staircase we get some rest, a splash of water (and a few more bites) before reaching one of the symbols of the lost city
La piscina
. Another huge staircase, this time wider straighter and with three distinct paths (later we are informed this is so that the shaman can walk in the middle surronded by his two wives). Reaching the top out of breath and in need of another water break, we are instead greeted with a sight to take the breath away. The City! Or what is left of it.The clouds and mist of the coming rain add to the mystery effect and we wander around the circles of rock with a hushed awe of silence. The view is so out of this world, and the feeling of acheivement at arriving is profound. After several photo shoots and some time to take in the beauty of the place, we are pointed towards our camp, another few hundred metres away.
This again is basic, though has 3 floors, and mattresses for sleeping. The number of mosquitos here seems to have unbelieveably increased and as we reapply all of our protection the guides begin to sort out some popcorn. We had decided to explore the city properly tomorrow morning when the sun would be out, so instead we sit down with the guide to hear stories. Apparently he has been doing this for 14 years, been to the city over 400 times, and takes what took us 3 days to walk just 4 hours. A little subdued, he then goes on to tell us that we are actually staying in the same camp as the tourists infamously kidnapped in 2003!! During this some guys in charge of maintenance come to say hello and Caro eventualy manages to persuade them to come back later with guitars for a sing song! They kept to the promise and the night was spent singing (or for most of us listening) to vallenatos sung by the colombians, with an additional instrument percussion from the army who had turned up during rounds! Due to the lack of rum, this wasnt a late night, though thoroughly enjoyable.
Another bad nights sleep gave way to an early morning lit by a hot sun
Flowers
. Perfect for exploring the city! Most of the sites look similar now - all thats left are large cicular stone platforms, hidden amoung the jungle background and covered by grasses - It's not hard to imagine them with the huts and life that existed before the Spanish invasion. Jhon explained the life of the Shaman, and his people, there religion, and jewelery crafted from gold. Much of this was stolen by grave robbers when the city was rediscovered 400 years later, though many sites still have gold buried in the centre of the circles, protected by the indigenous that still live here. After a few hours exploring it is time to head back. The afternoons rains are fast approaching and there are too many river crossings cliffs as it is to risk getting caught in a storm as well. The journey back is fairly uneventful, and we all feel a little subdued to be leaving already, and we make it all the way back to Mamey within 2 days. Our feeling of satisfaction at having completed this trek good though it was did not last long, as the heavens opened for a full blown storm shortly after arrriving. We ate quickly and were piled back into the jeep for another terrifying journey back to civilisation and normal roads. Once on the way we are told to hang on, as there was a small stream along the road that with the rain would swell making the road completely unpassable, but if we were quick we might make it. Of course arrived at the stream to find it was a full blown river, sereal meters wide and completely unpassable, and were left with nothing to do but camp it out in the back of the jeep til it passed. Again knees in faces with darkness falling we are stranded for over 4 hours waiting. Til finally a local makes it across on a bike announces it 'safe'. We gladly follow and are on our way again, til we come across our next obstacle! The storm had caused a tree to block the road and out jums everyone again with axes.
We finally arrive to Santa Marta by Chiva (the party bus) in a very unpartylike mood, exhausted but feeling that the whole trip was completely 'vale la pena'.
Comments
Hi
My goodness what an adventure you are both on and what wonderful photographs. So nice to read all about it. Have had some good lunches and a few evening meals at Cafe Rouge very upset one night Elizabeth and I didn't know a sole lots of new staff!! not like you two though lots of love Barbara BBC xxx
LOVELY
Wow - that place looks amazing!!
Love you - miss you!! LOTS OF LOVE