Layers of India

One week in India!

Diksha school children

There is so much to absorb. Sometimes it is just too much to be fully present for, and I can feel myself build mental constructs between me and my experience...other times I am simply flooded with the moment. India is layer upon layer of color and texture, culture and history...what you see is largely determined by what you look for. I have been driven down the same road almost every day, and still, every day, it is a new road.

Reverence and ritual are a part of every day life here. The British flavor is still strong, only being replaced by shiny western naterialism. But somehow it hasn't grabbed hold of the soil, rather it sits like aluminum foil, on the surface. The smog is so thick that I blacken my wash cloth at the end of the day. It is clear to me that if the whole world tries to live like Americans, our planet is doomed. It is really our responsibility as "developed" countries to set better examples and priorities.

girls at the park

I have walked past beggars lying on the side of the road, past street sweepers, bent over their short twig brooms, been served tea by silent servants, played Indian bingo at the local social club and sipped wine at a home with marble floors, fine art and extraordinary antiques, listening to classic rock ("Money"). It is hard to reconcile these extremes. Is lying on the side of the road any way to lead a life? Is looking the other way every day any way to lead a life? Can we live more simply, that eveyone can live?

I took the "city tour" to see the predominant local sights. The bus was full, but I was the only "non Indian" aboard. Hindu and English compete as the commonly shared language, as every state has its own language. The few polite words that I have learned here with my host family did not help me on the bus. Luckily, most of the children speak some enlish, and as usual, I am most comfortable with them anyway. I made friends with a 15 year old boy who, like me, is interested in art and history, though he plans to study computer engineering, because that's where the money is. My favorite site was a 5th century fort/castle (Golcanda Fort) north of the city. The tour gave me a better sense of Indian history. It was strange to realize that there was a 7th generation Muslim "king" here, who died a beloved leader while we were having civil rights marches...after I was born. The tour also took us through "Old Hyderabad" which is a predominantly Muslim area, with a HUGE mosque and a palace with minarettes.

Golconda Fort

Muslim women, in their black garb stand out like a flock of crows against the bright saris around them. There is also something intimidating about approaching a figure draped in black, with nothing but slits for eyes. But when I have met the eyes in those slits, I have been met with smiling eyes.

Family life is strong and traditional here. Still, a large percentage of marriages are arranged. Still the wife joins her husband's family. I can see the warm web of community that such tradition can weave. The girls here (22 and 17) are happy at home, studying and working, sharing meals and family life, until they are married. Downstairs is more family (paternal grandparents etc.) someone is always home.

looking back toward Hyderabad

I find the intellectual people here asking questions about the world that are similar to mine. They are kind, respectful, interested and interesting. The newspaper is humorous and refreshing. The US often bears the brunt of the jokes...as well it should. I stand out like a sore thumb...and draw attention wherever I go...even if I dress like an Indian...eyes follow me everywhere. Still, there is no hissing or hooting, and I have been warmly received by everyone I meet. Young girls in the park tried to teach me some basic Telegu. A young scholar told me how Telegu is the Italian of India...the poet's language.

This week I have been putting in full days mentoring and doing workshops at the school. It is nice to feel useful as I explore a new culture. Children put me at ease.

Pradnyesh and family

The whole school gathers in the courtyard each morning to open the day with Om Shanti. Then they sing seasonal songs and play recorders before they go to their classrooms. The families take turns providing hot lunch for their child's class each day. The children and teachers are joyful. English is the language of instruction (although there are times that I know they are speaking english, but I cant understand it at all. Hindu and Telegu are taught in language classes. There is a lot of love and dedication here, and a lot of gratitude from the parents, but especially from the students. I saw an ambitious rendering of Fiddler on the Roof, presented by the 6th grade class. Education here is accelerated in part because there is such a huge population that there is heightened competition for higher education. This translates into early, high pressure academics and, of course, a lot of weight put on testing. So, really, many of the struggles that I see here in this school are not so different from the struggles in schools at home. I have not yet visited any of the villages in the surrounding areas, which I understand is another world all together. Maybe I will get out of the city this weekend.

that's me!

Signing off for now.

Tommi

welcomed by the children